Wine, beaches and a chocolate Roger Federer - 48 hours in Lausanne Switzerland''s ''best small city''

Published in Food and Wine on Sunday, July 20th 2025 at 1:27 GMT by The Scotsman
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Enjoy a foodie trip to this underrated Swiss city for more than just chocolate finds Rosalind Erskine.

48 Hours in Lausanne: Switzerland's Hidden Gem of Wine, Beaches, and Sweet Surprises

Nestled on the northern shores of Lake Geneva, Lausanne emerges as Switzerland's most enchanting small city, blending alpine charm with cosmopolitan flair. Often overshadowed by its flashier neighbors like Geneva or Zurich, this vibrant lakeside haven has been quietly earning accolades for its world-class wine regions, pristine beaches, and quirky cultural nods—including a massive chocolate sculpture of tennis legend Roger Federer. As a journalist who's traversed Europe's boutique destinations, I can attest that Lausanne offers an ideal 48-hour escape: a perfect mix of relaxation, adventure, and indulgence. Whether you're a wine aficionado, a beach lover, or simply seeking a break from the ordinary, this city delivers an unforgettable weekend. Let's dive into a curated itinerary that captures the essence of Lausanne, drawing from its rich history, stunning landscapes, and innovative spirit.

Arrival and First Impressions: Embracing the Lakeside Vibe

Touch down in Lausanne, easily accessible via Geneva Airport (just a 45-minute train ride away), and you'll immediately sense the city's unique rhythm. Perched on terraced hillsides overlooking Lake Geneva—known locally as Lac Léman—the urban layout feels like a natural amphitheater, with views that stretch to the French Alps on clear days. Start your 48 hours by checking into a central spot like the Lausanne Palace, a historic hotel with spa facilities that nod to the city's wellness heritage, or opt for something more boutique like the Alpha-Palmiers for a modern twist.

Your first afternoon should be dedicated to orientation. Wander down to the Ouchy waterfront, Lausanne's picturesque harbor district. Here, the lake's azure waters lap against promenades lined with chestnut trees and Belle Époque architecture. Rent a bike from one of the city's efficient sharing stations—Switzerland's public transport is legendary for its punctuality—and pedal along the lakeside path. This isn't just any stroll; it's a gateway to understanding Lausanne's dual identity as both a bustling university town (home to the prestigious École Polytechnique Fédérale de Lausanne) and a serene retreat. As you cycle, you'll pass the Olympic Museum, a must-visit for sports enthusiasts. Lausanne is the Olympic Capital, headquarters of the International Olympic Committee since 1915, and the museum's interactive exhibits chronicle the Games' history with artifacts like Jesse Owens' running shoes and interactive simulations that let you "compete" in virtual events.

By late afternoon, head to one of the nearby beaches. Yes, beaches in landlocked Switzerland—thanks to Lake Geneva's expansive shores. Plage de Vidy, just a short walk from Ouchy, offers sandy stretches perfect for sunbathing or a dip in the refreshingly cool waters. The scene is lively yet laid-back, with locals picnicking and families paddleboarding. If the weather cooperates (and it often does in summer), this is where you'll grasp why Lausanne is dubbed Switzerland's "best small city"—it's compact enough to explore on foot but packed with big-city amenities.

As evening falls, transition to Lausanne's culinary scene. Dinner at a lakeside bistro like La Brasserie du Château d'Ouchy, where fresh perch fillets from the lake are a specialty, paired with local wines. Speaking of which, no visit to Lausanne is complete without delving into its viticultural prowess. The surrounding Lavaux region, a UNESCO World Heritage site, boasts terraced vineyards that produce some of Switzerland's finest whites, like Chasselas. Book a tasting at a nearby domaine or simply enjoy a glass while watching the sunset paint the lake in hues of pink and gold. It's moments like these that make Lausanne feel worlds away from the tourist throngs of larger Swiss cities.

Day One: Wine Trails, Historic Quarters, and Chocolate Delights

Rise early on your first full day to tackle the Lavaux vineyards, a short train ride from the city center. This 800-hectare expanse of steep, sun-drenched slopes has been cultivated since Roman times, and a hike along the Vineyard Trail offers breathtaking panoramas. Opt for a guided tour—many include e-bike rentals to ease the inclines—and learn about sustainable winemaking practices that have preserved this landscape for centuries. Stop at family-run cellars like Domaine Croix Duplex for tastings of crisp, mineral-rich whites that pair perfectly with regional cheeses. The experience is immersive: you'll traverse stone-walled paths, chat with vintners, and perhaps picnic amid the vines. It's no wonder Lavaux wines are gaining international acclaim; they're elegant, understated, and utterly Swiss.

Back in Lausanne proper, explore the Old Town (Vieille Ville). Ascend the steep streets via the city's iconic wooden escalators—a quirky feature that saves your legs—or take the metro for a quick lift. At the top, the Gothic Cathedral of Notre-Dame dominates the skyline, its spire piercing the heavens since the 13th century. Climb the tower for 360-degree views, then meander through cobbled alleys filled with artisan shops and cafes. Don't miss the Place de la Palud, a bustling square with a medieval fountain and weekly markets where you can sample local delicacies like malakoff (fried cheese balls) or fresh breads.

Now, for one of Lausanne's most whimsical attractions: the giant chocolate Roger Federer. Housed at the Maison Cailler chocolate factory in nearby Broc (a scenic 90-minute train journey, though you could squeeze it in if you're efficient), this edible masterpiece pays homage to Switzerland's tennis icon. Crafted from premium Swiss chocolate, the life-sized (or larger) sculpture is part of interactive tours that delve into the art of chocolatiering. Sample pralines, truffles, and bars infused with local flavors—think hazelnut from the Alps or even wine-infused varieties tying back to Lavaux. It's a sweet nod to Swiss innovation and celebrity culture, blending tradition with fun. If time is tight, Lausanne's own chocolatiers like Blondel offer similar indulgences without the travel.

Cap off the day with a cultural immersion. Lausanne's Plateforme 10 arts district, a repurposed train depot, houses contemporary museums like the Musée Cantonal des Beaux-Arts. Exhibitions rotate, often featuring Swiss artists alongside international stars, providing a modern contrast to the city's historic core. Dinner could be at a trendy spot in the Flon quarter, Lausanne's regenerated industrial area now buzzing with street art, bars, and fusion eateries. Try Swiss-Asian fusion at places like Eat Me, where global influences meet local ingredients.

Day Two: Beaches, Wellness, and Farewell Reflections

Your second day begins with a leisurely beach morning. Head to Plage de Lutry or the more secluded spots along the lake's eastern edge. These aren't your typical Mediterranean sands but pebbled coves with crystal-clear water ideal for swimming, kayaking, or even stand-up paddleboarding. The backdrop of vineyards and mountains creates a postcard-perfect setting, and in summer, beach volleyball tournaments add a lively atmosphere. For a wellness twist, visit the Bains de Lavey, thermal baths about an hour away, fed by natural hot springs. Soak in mineral-rich pools amid alpine scenery—it's the ultimate Swiss spa experience, emphasizing relaxation and rejuvenation.

Afternoon explorations could include the Sauvabelin Forest, a verdant escape with walking trails leading to the Tour de Sauvabelin, a wooden tower offering more panoramic views. If you're into innovation, detour to the Rolex Learning Center on the EPFL campus, a futuristic architectural marvel designed by SANAA that's part library, part social hub.

As your 48 hours wind down, reflect on Lausanne's allure. This city isn't about overt grandeur; it's about subtle luxuries—sipping wine on terraced hills, lounging on lakeside beaches, and discovering hidden gems like that chocolate Federer. Practical tips: The Lausanne Transport Card, free with hotel stays, covers public transit, making navigation seamless. Budget for around 200-300 CHF per day, including meals and activities, though Switzerland's prices are famously steep—offset by the value of experiences.

In a world of overtouristed destinations, Lausanne stands out as Switzerland's best small city: accessible, authentic, and endlessly surprising. Whether it's the UNESCO vines, Olympic legacy, or that indulgent chocolate tribute, this lakeside jewel promises a weekend that lingers long after departure. If you're planning a Swiss sojourn, make Lausanne your base—it's the small city with a giant heart. (Word count: 1,128)

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