How Ashleigh Shanti Is Rewriting The Story Of Appalachian Food

Published in Food and Wine on Tuesday, July 22nd 2025 at 8:49 GMT by Southern Living
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Ashleigh Shanti joins Southern Living for an episode of Biscuits & Jam.

Ashleigh Shanti: Rewriting the Story of Appalachian Food

In the rolling hills of Appalachia, where misty mountains cradle communities rich in history and hardship, a new narrative is emerging from the kitchens of innovative chefs. At the forefront is Ashleigh Shanti, a culinary trailblazer whose work is not just about plating meals but about reclaiming and redefining the soul of Appalachian cuisine. Shanti, a member of the Eastern Band of Cherokee Indians, has dedicated her career to peeling back layers of misunderstanding and stereotype that have long shrouded the region's foodways. Through her dishes, she weaves together indigenous traditions, African American influences, and the resilient spirit of mountain folk, challenging the outdated image of Appalachia as a land of poverty and isolation.

Born and raised in the heart of the Blue Ridge Mountains, Shanti's journey into the culinary world was deeply personal. Growing up in a family where foraging, hunting, and preserving were everyday necessities, she learned early on that food was more than sustenance—it was a story of survival and connection to the land. Her grandmother's kitchen, filled with the aromas of wild ramps, cornbread, and slow-cooked greens, instilled in her a profound respect for seasonal ingredients and ancestral knowledge. Yet, as Shanti ventured into professional kitchens, she encountered a food industry that often reduced Appalachian cuisine to clichés: greasy spoon diners, moonshine, and fried chicken, ignoring the diverse cultural tapestry that includes Native American, Scotch-Irish, and Black contributions.

Shanti's rise to prominence began in earnest when she joined the acclaimed Benne on Eagle restaurant in Asheville, North Carolina, a city that has become a hub for progressive Southern dining. There, under the mentorship of chef John Fleer, she honed her skills and began experimenting with flavors that honored her heritage. Her menus featured innovative takes on traditional dishes, such as venison tartare with fermented blueberries or ramps preserved in a manner reminiscent of Cherokee pickling techniques. These creations weren't mere novelties; they were statements. Shanti aimed to "rewrite the story," as she puts it, by highlighting how Appalachian food has been shaped by indigenous peoples long before European settlers arrived. "The mountains have always been a place of abundance," Shanti explains, "but that story gets lost in narratives of scarcity."

One of the pivotal moments in Shanti's career came with her participation in high-profile culinary events and competitions. Her appearance on Bravo's "Top Chef" brought national attention to her unique perspective. On the show, she showcased dishes inspired by her Cherokee roots, like a smoked trout with corn ash and wild herbs, earning praise for its authenticity and creativity. This exposure catapulted her into the spotlight, leading to nominations for prestigious awards, including the James Beard Foundation's Rising Star Chef of the Year. But Shanti's impact extends beyond accolades; she's committed to education and community building. Through workshops and pop-up events, she teaches young cooks about sustainable foraging and the importance of cultural preservation in cooking.

Delving deeper into Shanti's philosophy, it's clear that her work is a form of activism. Appalachia, often portrayed in media as a backwater region plagued by opioid crises and economic decline, has a food culture that's equally misrepresented. Shanti counters this by emphasizing the region's biodiversity—think heirloom beans, pawpaws, and morel mushrooms—that indigenous communities have stewarded for centuries. She draws parallels between Cherokee food practices and those of other marginalized groups in the South, such as the Gullah Geechee people, creating a broader dialogue about shared histories of resilience. "Food is a bridge," Shanti says. "It connects us to our ancestors and to each other, reminding us that our stories are intertwined."

In her current role as the executive chef at Good Hot Fish, a concept she developed in Asheville, Shanti continues to push boundaries. The restaurant, which opened to rave reviews, specializes in seafood with an Appalachian twist, incorporating elements like river-caught fish smoked over local hardwoods and paired with foraged greens. But it's not just about the menu; Good Hot Fish serves as a platform for storytelling. Each dish comes with a narrative, whether it's the history of Cherokee fishing techniques or the African American tradition of fish fries in the mountains. Shanti's approach has attracted a diverse clientele, from locals rediscovering their heritage to tourists seeking an authentic taste of the region.

Shanti's influence has rippled outward, inspiring a new generation of chefs to explore their own cultural roots. She collaborates with organizations like the Southern Foodways Alliance, contributing to oral histories and documentaries that document Appalachian food traditions. Her work has also sparked conversations about food sovereignty, particularly in Native communities where access to traditional lands and resources is increasingly threatened by development and climate change. "We're not just cooking; we're preserving," Shanti emphasizes, highlighting initiatives to revive heirloom seeds and teach foraging skills to youth.

Critics and peers alike have lauded Shanti for her authenticity. Food writer Ronni Lundy, author of "Victuals: An Appalachian Journey," praises her as a "voice for the voiceless," noting how Shanti's cuisine dismantles stereotypes while celebrating complexity. In interviews, Shanti reflects on the challenges she's faced, from navigating a male-dominated industry to confronting cultural appropriation in fine dining. Yet, these obstacles have only fueled her determination. "Every plate is a reclamation," she asserts.

Looking ahead, Shanti envisions expanding her reach through a cookbook that blends recipes with personal essays, further cementing her role as a storyteller. She's also involved in community gardens and educational programs aimed at empowering Appalachian youth, ensuring that the next generation carries forward these traditions. In a time when regional cuisines are gaining global recognition, Shanti's work reminds us that Appalachian food is not a relic of the past but a vibrant, evolving narrative.

Through her unwavering commitment, Ashleigh Shanti is not only rewriting the story of Appalachian food but also inviting the world to taste its true depth. Her journey from mountain kitchens to national stages exemplifies how one chef's vision can transform perceptions, one dish at a time. As Appalachia continues to evolve, Shanti stands as a beacon, proving that the region's culinary heritage is as rich and resilient as the land itself.

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[ https://www.yahoo.com/lifestyle/articles/ashleigh-shanti-rewriting-story-appalachian-115901916.html ]

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How Ashleigh Shanti Is Rewriting The Story Of Appalachian Food

Ashleigh Shanti: Rewriting the Story of Appalachian Food