Food & Wine
The Enduring Art of Cypriot Wine: A Legacy of Balance and Resilience
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Published in Food and Wine on Thursday, August 21st 2025 at 13:43 GMT by United Press International🞛 This publication is a summary or evaluation of another publication 🞛 This publication contains editorial commentary or bias from the source
Cyprus, a sun-drenched island nation in the eastern Mediterranean, boasts a history as rich and complex as its celebrated wines. For millennia, winemaking has been interwoven with the fabric of Cypriot culture, evolving through periods of Phoenician influence, Roman rule, Byzantine traditions, and Ottoman occupation. Today, while modern techniques are embraced, the core philosophy remains remarkably consistent: achieving balance – between tradition and innovation, drought resistance and flavor complexity, and a deep respect for the land. A recent profile in Yahoo News highlights this enduring legacy, focusing on the unique character of Cypriot wines and the challenges faced by its producers.
The article centers around Yiannis Parotis, a fourth-generation winemaker at Etko Wines, who embodies this commitment to tradition while navigating the realities of climate change and shifting consumer preferences. His family’s vineyard, like many across Cyprus, is planted with indigenous grape varieties – Xynisteri for whites and Maratheftiko and Lefkosia for reds – that have adapted over centuries to the island's harsh conditions. These aren't grapes you'll find dominating global wine lists; they are a testament to Cypriot resilience and a key ingredient in what makes the region’s wines so distinctive.
Xynisteri, the dominant white grape, is particularly remarkable. It thrives in Cyprus’s limestone-rich soil and hot, dry climate, producing wines that are surprisingly refreshing despite their full body. They possess a characteristic minerality, often described as flinty or chalky, alongside citrus notes and a subtle herbal complexity. While historically known for higher acidity, modern winemakers like Parotis are working to soften the edges while preserving the grape’s inherent character through careful fermentation techniques and controlled aging.
The red grapes, Maratheftiko and Lefkosia (also known as Tenta), offer an equally compelling story. Maratheftiko, in particular, is considered a “heroic” variety due to its low yields and susceptibility to disease. Yet, it rewards perseverance with wines of intense color, concentrated fruit flavors – often dark cherry and plum – and firm tannins that provide structure and aging potential. Lefkosia contributes softer tannins and brighter red fruit notes, adding complexity to blends.
The article emphasizes the challenges facing Cypriot winemakers. The island's Mediterranean climate is becoming increasingly arid, with prolonged droughts and rising temperatures posing a significant threat to vineyards. Water scarcity is a constant concern, forcing producers to adopt sustainable practices like dry farming – relying on rainfall rather than irrigation – which further highlights the resilience of these ancient grape varieties.
Beyond environmental pressures, Cypriot winemakers also face the challenge of competing in an increasingly globalized market dominated by established wine regions. While exports have grown significantly in recent years, particularly to countries like Germany and the UK, raising awareness about Cypriot wines remains a priority. The Yahoo News piece highlights efforts to promote these unique wines through tastings, competitions, and collaborations with international chefs and sommeliers.
Interestingly, the article also touches upon the historical context of Cypriot winemaking. For centuries, Cypriot wine was often fortified with herbs and spices – a practice rooted in preserving the wine for long journeys and adding flavor due to limited viticultural knowledge. This tradition has evolved into the creation of Commandaria, Cyprus’s oldest named wine and one of the world's oldest wines still in production. Commandaria is a sweet dessert wine made from sun-dried Xynisteri and Maratheftiko grapes, offering a glimpse into the island’s winemaking heritage.
The profile concludes with a sense of optimism for the future of Cypriot wine. While challenges remain, the dedication of producers like Yiannis Parotis to preserving tradition while embracing innovation ensures that these unique wines will continue to thrive. The focus on indigenous grape varieties, sustainable practices, and a commitment to quality positions Cypriot winemaking as a testament to human ingenuity and the enduring power of connection to the land. It’s a story not just about wine, but about resilience, heritage, and the art of finding balance in a changing world – a truly remarkable reflection of the spirit of Cyprus itself. To further explore this topic, readers are encouraged to investigate Commandaria's history (as mentioned in the article) and research the specific challenges faced by winemakers in drought-prone regions globally. The Yahoo News article also mentions the importance of water conservation techniques; researching these practices would provide a deeper understanding of sustainable viticulture.
