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Wine, etc.: Interesting alternatives to your standard summer quaff | COMMENTARY

Wine, Etc.: Interesting Alternatives to Your Standard Summer Quaff

As the dog days of summer settle in, many of us reach for the familiar comforts of chilled rosé, crisp Sauvignon Blanc, or perhaps a light Pinot Grigio to beat the heat. These are the go-to quaffs that define backyard barbecues, poolside lounging, and al fresco dinners. But what if we ventured beyond the predictable? In this commentary, we'll explore a world of intriguing wine alternatives that can elevate your summer sipping without sacrificing refreshment. Drawing from recent tastings, expert insights, and emerging trends, these selections promise to add excitement to your glass while challenging the status quo of seasonal drinking.

Let's start by acknowledging why we default to those standards. Summer wines are typically light-bodied, high in acidity, and served cold to combat the warmth. Rosé, with its strawberry-kissed allure, has exploded in popularity, thanks in part to the Provence boom. Sauvignon Blanc offers zesty citrus and herbal notes that pair perfectly with salads and seafood. Yet, these can become monotonous. Enter the alternatives: wines from underrepresented regions, unconventional grape varieties, and innovative styles that deliver similar refreshment with a twist of novelty.

One compelling category is the resurgence of ancient grape varieties from the Mediterranean basin. Take Assyrtiko from Santorini, Greece. This white wine, born from volcanic soils, bursts with minerality and lemon-lime vibrancy, often likened to a more structured Chablis. Unlike your standard Sauvignon Blanc, Assyrtiko brings a saline edge—think sea spray on a hot day—that makes it ideal for grilled octopus or fresh feta salads. I've recently sampled the 2023 Domaine Sigalas Assyrtiko, which retails around $25. It's bone-dry, with a piercing acidity that cuts through humidity like a knife. If you're tired of the grassy punch of New Zealand Sauvignon, this Greek gem offers a sophisticated detour, evoking the azure waters of the Aegean without leaving your patio.

Moving southward, consider the whites of Sicily. Etna Bianco, made primarily from Carricante grapes grown on the slopes of Mount Etna, is another volcanic wonder. These wines are taut and elegant, with flavors of green apple, almond, and a subtle smokiness from the terroir. The 2022 Benanti Etna Bianco, about $30, stands out for its balance and longevity—unlike many summer whites that fade quickly, this one evolves in the glass. Pair it with citrus-marinated chicken or vegetable kebabs for a match that feels both exotic and effortless. What sets these apart from your everyday Pinot Grigio? Depth. Sicilian whites often carry a textural richness from skin contact or aging, providing more complexity without heaviness.

For those who crave something pink but not pedestrian, look beyond Provence rosé to the rosados of Spain or the blush wines of Portugal. Vinho Verde rosé, for instance, hails from the Minho region and is made from local grapes like Espadeiro and Padeiro. These are lightly effervescent, low-alcohol sippers (often under 11% ABV) with red berry notes and a spritzy finish. The 2024 Aveleda Vinho Verde Rosé, priced at $12, is a budget-friendly alternative that's perfect for casual gatherings. It's less about the candy-like fruit of some rosés and more about subtle florals and a refreshing fizz that mimics a wine spritzer without the dilution. Imagine it alongside spicy shrimp tacos—the slight sparkle dances on the palate, cutting through bold flavors.

But summer isn't just for whites and pinks; light reds deserve a spot in the rotation. Chillable reds are having a moment, and few do it better than Gamay from Beaujolais or its cousins in unexpected places. Venture to the Loire Valley for Pineau d'Aunis, a rare red grape that produces peppery, herbaceous wines with bright cherry fruit. The 2023 Thierry Puzelat Pineau d'Aunis, around $28, is a revelation: serve it chilled, and it mimics a rosé-red hybrid with lively acidity and low tannins. It's an excellent foil to charcuterie boards or grilled vegetables, offering more intrigue than a standard Beaujolais Nouveau.

Don't overlook the world of orange wines—skin-contact whites that straddle the line between white and red. These amber-hued beauties are fermented with their skins, imparting tannin and texture. From Georgia (the country, not the state), where winemaking dates back 8,000 years, try a Rkatsiteli orange wine like the 2022 Pheasant's Tears. At $22, it delivers apricot, tea, and nutty notes with a grippy mouthfeel. It's not your watery summer white; instead, it pairs boldly with cheese platters or Asian-inspired salads. Critics might call orange wines "funky," but in summer heat, their complexity shines, especially when chilled to 50 degrees Fahrenheit.

Sparkling options beyond Prosecco or Cava also merit attention. Pét-nat (pétillant naturel) wines, with their natural fizz and minimal intervention, are playful alternatives. From California's Central Coast, the 2023 Field Recordings Pét-Nat Chenin Blanc ($25) explodes with pear and floral aromas, finishing dry and effervescent. It's unfiltered, slightly cloudy, and utterly alive—perfect for picnics where you want something fun and unpredictable. Unlike the uniform bubbles of Champagne-method sparklers, pét-nats vary bottle to bottle, adding an element of surprise.

Venturing further afield, South American whites offer value and variety. Torrontés from Argentina's high-altitude vineyards in Salta provides floral intensity with lychee and peach notes, reminiscent of Gewürztraminer but lighter. The 2023 Colomé Torrontés ($15) is aromatic yet crisp, ideal for spicy Thai dishes or fruit salsas. In Chile, País-based wines from the Maule Valley revive ancient vines for rustic, juicy reds that chill beautifully. The 2022 Rogue Vine País ($20) is earthy and bright, with cranberry and herb flavors— a far cry from heavy Cabernets.

Sustainability plays a role in these choices too. Many alternatives come from organic or biodynamic producers, aligning with eco-conscious consumers. For example, the natural wine movement emphasizes low-sulfite, terroir-driven bottles that feel authentic to summer's laid-back vibe.

Of course, experimenting requires guidance. Start with a mixed case from a local wine shop or subscription service like Vinebox, which curates offbeat selections. Temperature is key: chill these wines to 45-55 degrees for optimal refreshment. And remember, the best pairings are personal—let your palate lead.

In conclusion, while standard summer quaffs have their place, these alternatives— from volcanic whites to pét-nats and beyond—invite adventure. They remind us that wine is about discovery, not routine. As temperatures rise, why not cool down with something unexpected? Your next sip could redefine summer.

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