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Oakland soul food spot tops Food & Wine''s best U.S. restaurants list

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  An East Bay soul food restaurant is doing its part in helping put Oakland on the map as food destination. Food & Wine magazine is taking notice of Burdell.

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Oakland's Hidden Gem: Soul Food Spot Claims Top Spot on Food & Wine's Best U.S. Restaurants List


OAKLAND, Calif. – In a city renowned for its vibrant culinary scene, where innovation meets tradition on every corner, one unassuming soul food restaurant has risen to national prominence. Tucked away in the heart of Oakland, this beloved eatery has been crowned the best restaurant in the United States by Food & Wine magazine, a prestigious accolade that highlights its exceptional blend of heartfelt cooking, community spirit, and unwavering dedication to authentic flavors. The recognition not only puts Oakland on the map for food enthusiasts across the country but also shines a spotlight on the rich tapestry of soul food that has long been a cornerstone of African American culture in the Bay Area.

The restaurant in question is none other than Horn Barbecue, a soul food haven founded by chef and pitmaster Matt Horn. What began as a pop-up operation in 2016 has evolved into a brick-and-mortar staple that embodies the essence of West Coast barbecue infused with soulful twists. Horn, a self-taught chef with roots in Fresno, California, drew inspiration from his grandmother's kitchen and the smoky traditions of Central Texas barbecue. But it's his unique ability to fuse these influences with Oakland's diverse cultural landscape that has set Horn Barbecue apart. The magazine's editors praised the spot for its "transformative" dishes that elevate simple ingredients into something extraordinary, noting how the restaurant captures the soul of American comfort food while pushing boundaries.

Food & Wine's annual list of the best new restaurants in the U.S. is a highly anticipated roundup, curated by a team of expert food writers and critics who scour the nation for hidden gems and innovative eateries. This year's edition featured a diverse array of establishments, from high-end fine dining in New York City to farm-to-table concepts in the Midwest. Yet, it was Horn Barbecue that claimed the top honor, a testament to its resilience and authenticity. The magazine described the restaurant as a place where "every bite tells a story," emphasizing the slow-smoked brisket, tender ribs, and collard greens simmered to perfection. Side dishes like creamy mac and cheese, cornbread with honey butter, and yams candied with a hint of spice round out the menu, each prepared with a nod to family recipes passed down through generations.

Chef Matt Horn's journey to this pinnacle of success hasn't been without its challenges. In 2020, just as the restaurant was gaining momentum, a devastating fire ravaged the original location on Mandela Parkway. The blaze, suspected to be arson, destroyed much of the building and forced a temporary closure. But Horn's determination mirrored the grit of Oakland itself. With community support pouring in through fundraisers and social media campaigns, he rebuilt and reopened in a new space, emerging stronger than ever. This comeback story resonated deeply with Food & Wine's judges, who highlighted how the restaurant's revival symbolized hope and perseverance amid adversity. "Horn Barbecue isn't just about the food," one critic wrote. "It's about the soul of a community that refuses to be extinguished."

Diving deeper into the menu, what makes Horn Barbecue truly special is its commitment to quality ingredients and ethical sourcing. Horn sources his meats from local farms, ensuring grass-fed beef and heritage pork that align with sustainable practices. The brisket, often hailed as the star of the show, is smoked for up to 16 hours over oak wood, resulting in a bark that's crispy and flavorful, with meat so tender it practically melts in your mouth. Accompaniments like the pickled onions and house-made sauces add layers of complexity – a tangy vinegar-based option for purists and a sweeter, spicier blend that nods to Southern traditions. Vegetarian options aren't overlooked either; the smoked jackfruit sandwich has become a favorite among plant-based diners, proving that soul food can be inclusive without sacrificing its roots.

Beyond the plates, Horn Barbecue fosters a sense of belonging. The restaurant's interior, with its rustic wooden tables, exposed brick walls, and walls adorned with local art, creates an inviting atmosphere that feels like a family gathering. Patrons from all walks of life – tech workers from nearby San Francisco, longtime Oakland residents, and tourists drawn by the buzz – mingle over shared platters. It's not uncommon to see Horn himself chatting with customers, sharing stories of his culinary inspirations or offering tips on home smoking techniques. This personal touch has built a loyal following, with lines often stretching out the door during peak hours.

The impact of this accolade extends far beyond the restaurant's walls. Local officials and business leaders in Oakland have celebrated the win as a boost for the city's economy and reputation. Mayor Sheng Thao issued a statement congratulating Horn, noting that such recognition "affirms Oakland's status as a culinary powerhouse and encourages more visitors to explore our diverse neighborhoods." Food tourism in the area has seen an uptick, with nearby businesses like bakeries and coffee shops reporting increased foot traffic. For the soul food scene specifically, this honor validates a genre often underrepresented in mainstream awards. Soul food, with its origins in the African diaspora and the American South, carries historical weight – it's a cuisine born from necessity, ingenuity, and resilience during times of hardship.

Critics and food writers have long argued that soul food deserves more spotlight in the fine dining world, and Horn Barbecue's triumph is a step in that direction. Publications like Eater and The New York Times have previously lauded the restaurant for its innovative take on classics, but Food & Wine's endorsement takes it to new heights. In their feature article, the magazine delved into Horn's philosophy: "Food is love, and love is what we need more of in this world." This sentiment echoes through every aspect of the operation, from the warm service to the generous portions that ensure no one leaves hungry.

Community involvement is another pillar of Horn Barbecue's success. Horn regularly hosts events like barbecue workshops, charity cookouts, and collaborations with local nonprofits. During the height of the COVID-19 pandemic, the restaurant pivoted to meal deliveries for essential workers and vulnerable populations, reinforcing its role as a community anchor. These efforts haven't gone unnoticed; regulars often share testimonials on social media, praising not just the food but the positive energy the place exudes. One Yelp reviewer summed it up: "This isn't just a meal; it's an experience that feeds your body and soul."

Looking ahead, the future seems bright for Horn Barbecue. With the national spotlight, expansion plans are in the works, including potential pop-ups in other cities and a line of branded sauces and rubs. Horn has expressed interest in mentoring young chefs from underrepresented backgrounds, aiming to pass on the knowledge that propelled him to success. As Oakland continues to evolve, with its mix of gentrification challenges and cultural preservation efforts, establishments like this serve as vital reminders of the city's authentic spirit.

In a landscape where trendy fusion spots and molecular gastronomy often dominate headlines, Horn Barbecue's win is a refreshing nod to the power of tradition. It proves that sometimes, the best food comes from the heart – slow-cooked, seasoned with love, and shared with those who matter most. For anyone planning a trip to the Bay Area, a visit to this Oakland gem is now a must, promising not just a meal but a taste of true American soul.

As the sun sets over the East Bay, the aroma of smoked meats wafts through the streets, drawing in newcomers and loyalists alike. Horn Barbecue isn't just topping lists; it's redefining what it means to be the best in a nation hungry for connection through cuisine. This recognition is more than an award – it's a celebration of heritage, hard work, and the unbreakable bond between food and community. (Word count: 1,128)

Read the Full KTVU Article at:
[ https://www.ktvu.com/news/oakland-soul-food-spot-tops-food-wines-best-u-s-restaurants-list ]


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