How Do You Make Biodynamic Wines? And Why Are They Special?

Published in Food and Wine on Tuesday, July 22nd 2025 at 14:48 GMT by Forbes
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Biodynamic wine is a big step above organic and as all-natural as you can get. Read on for the inside story on how biodynamic winemaking works and why the cow horn matters.

How Do You Make Biodynamic Wines, and Why Are They Special?

In the ever-evolving world of winemaking, biodynamic wines stand out as a fascinating intersection of ancient wisdom, modern sustainability, and unparalleled quality. Far more than just a trend, biodynamic viticulture represents a holistic philosophy that treats the vineyard as a living, breathing ecosystem. But what exactly goes into making these wines, and what makes them so special? To answer that, we need to delve into the principles, practices, and passions that drive this unique approach to wine production.

Biodynamic farming traces its roots back to the early 20th century, specifically to a series of lectures given by Austrian philosopher Rudolf Steiner in 1924. Concerned about the declining vitality of soils due to industrial agriculture, Steiner proposed a system that views the farm as a self-contained organism. This isn't just about avoiding chemicals—it's about fostering harmony between the earth, plants, animals, and even cosmic forces. In the context of wine, biodynamic methods have gained traction over the past few decades, with pioneers like Nicolas Joly in France's Loire Valley and estates in Burgundy, California, and beyond adopting these practices. Today, organizations like Demeter International certify biodynamic wines, ensuring adherence to strict standards that go well beyond organic certification.

At its core, making biodynamic wine starts with the soil. Unlike conventional winemaking, which might rely on synthetic fertilizers and pesticides, or even organic methods that permit certain natural inputs, biodynamics emphasizes regenerative practices. The vineyard is managed as a closed-loop system, where everything needed for fertility comes from within the farm itself. This includes composting, crop rotation, and integrating livestock—think cows grazing between vines or chickens pecking at pests. The goal is to build soil health that supports vibrant, resilient vines capable of producing grapes with deep, authentic flavors.

One of the most distinctive—and sometimes controversial—aspects of biodynamic winemaking is the use of specific "preparations." These are herbal, mineral, and animal-based concoctions designed to enhance the vineyard's vitality. There are nine key preparations, numbered 500 through 508, each with a unique purpose. Preparation 500, for instance, involves stuffing cow manure into cow horns and burying them in the soil over winter. Come spring, the transformed contents are diluted in water, dynamized (stirred vigorously in a specific pattern to infuse energy), and sprayed on the soil to stimulate microbial life and root growth. Preparation 501 uses ground quartz packed into cow horns, buried during summer, and later applied as a foliar spray to boost photosynthesis and light absorption.

Then there are the compost preparations: yarrow flowers fermented in a stag's bladder (502), chamomile in cow intestines (503), stinging nettle buried in peat (504), oak bark in a sheep's skull (505), dandelion in cow mesentery (506), valerian extract (507), and horsetail tea (508) for fungal control. These might sound like something out of a medieval alchemist's notebook, but proponents swear by their efficacy. Winemakers like those at Domaine de la Romanée-Conti in Burgundy or Frog's Leap in Napa Valley incorporate these into their composting routines, claiming they create a balanced, nutrient-rich humus that conventional methods can't match.

Timing is everything in biodynamics, guided by the lunar and celestial calendar. Planting, pruning, harvesting, and even bottling are scheduled according to the moon's phases and astrological positions. For example, "root days" are ideal for soil work, while "fruit days" are preferred for harvesting grapes to capture peak ripeness and energy. This cosmic alignment is believed to enhance the wine's expression of terroir—the unique sense of place that comes from soil, climate, and geography. Critics often dismiss this as pseudoscience, but many biodynamic wines consistently score high in tastings, suggesting there's more to it than mysticism.

So, why are biodynamic wines special? For starters, they often exhibit a purity and complexity that's hard to replicate. Without synthetic interventions, the grapes develop naturally, leading to wines with vibrant acidity, nuanced aromas, and a true reflection of their origin. Take, for instance, the biodynamic Champagnes from producers like Fleury or the Sauvignon Blancs from New Zealand's Millton Vineyards. These wines aren't just "clean"—they pulse with life, offering layers of flavor that evolve in the glass. Sommeliers and critics frequently note a certain "energy" or "vitality" in biodynamic bottlings, attributing it to the enhanced biodiversity in the vineyard.

From a sustainability perspective, biodynamics shines. By eschewing chemical inputs and promoting polyculture (growing multiple crops alongside vines), these vineyards support pollinators, birds, and beneficial insects, creating resilient ecosystems that can withstand climate change. In regions like California's Sonoma County, biodynamic farms have shown greater drought resistance and carbon sequestration compared to conventional ones. This aligns with growing consumer demand for eco-friendly products; biodynamic wines appeal to those who want their sip to contribute positively to the planet.

Moreover, the philosophy fosters a deeper connection between winemaker and land. It's labor-intensive—preparations must be handmade, and constant observation is key—but this hands-on approach often results in superior craftsmanship. Winemakers like Randall Grahm of Bonny Doon Vineyard describe it as "listening to the vineyard," allowing the wine to express itself without heavy-handed manipulation in the cellar. Minimal intervention extends to fermentation, where native yeasts are preferred over commercial strains, and sulfur use is kept low, preserving the wine's natural character.

Of course, biodynamics isn't without challenges. Certification is rigorous and costly, requiring a three-year transition period. The preparations demand time and resources, and not every vintage cooperates with the lunar calendar. Skeptics argue that the benefits stem more from the overall organic practices than the esoteric elements, and scientific studies on biodynamics are mixed—some show improved soil health, others find no significant difference. Yet, the movement is growing. In Europe, biodynamic vineyards cover thousands of hectares, and in the U.S., estates like Benziger Family Winery have converted entire operations, inspiring a new generation of vintners.

What sets biodynamic wines apart ultimately boils down to intention. They're not mass-produced; they're crafted with reverence for nature's rhythms. Tasting one can be revelatory—perhaps a crisp Alsatian Riesling from Domaine Zind-Humbrecht, with its mineral-driven precision, or a robust Barolo from Italy's biodynamic pioneers. These wines invite you to ponder the bigger picture: the interplay of earth, sky, and human stewardship.

In an industry facing environmental pressures, biodynamics offers a path forward. It's special because it challenges us to rethink wine not as a commodity, but as a vital expression of life's interconnectedness. Whether you're a collector seeking rarity or a casual drinker curious about sustainability, biodynamic wines promise an experience that's as enriching for the palate as it is for the soul. As more producers embrace this method, the future of wine looks brighter—and more harmonious—than ever.

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[ https://www.forbes.com/sites/katiebell/2025/07/22/how-do-you-make-biodynamic-wines-and-why-are-they-special/ ]

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How Do You Make Biodynamic Wines? And Why Are They Special?

How Do You Make Biodynamic Wines, and Why Are They Special?