N※N

Ontario approves new grape varieties, broadening choices for wine lovers

Ontario's Wine Revolution: New Grape Varieties Approved, Ushering in a Wave of Innovation and Diversity

In a significant move poised to transform the landscape of Canadian winemaking, the Ontario government has greenlit the introduction of 16 new grape varieties for use in the province's Vintners Quality Alliance (VQA) wines. This decision, announced recently, marks a departure from the region's traditional focus on cool-climate staples like Riesling, Chardonnay, and Pinot Noir, opening the door to a broader palette of flavors and styles that could redefine Ontario's place on the global wine map. For winemakers, consumers, and the industry at large, this expansion represents not just an opportunity for experimentation but a strategic adaptation to evolving environmental and market realities.

The approved varieties span a diverse range of origins and profiles, reflecting a deliberate effort to infuse Ontario's vineyards with international flair. Among the white grapes now permitted are Albariño, known for its crisp, aromatic qualities from Spain and Portugal; Chenin Blanc, a versatile workhorse from France's Loire Valley that can produce everything from dry table wines to luscious dessert styles; and Viognier, celebrated for its floral, peachy notes and often associated with the Rhône Valley. On the red side, the list includes Tempranillo, the backbone of Spain's Rioja wines with its bold, earthy character; Sangiovese, the star of Italy's Chianti and Brunello di Montalcino, offering bright acidity and cherry-driven flavors; and Nebbiolo, the finicky yet revered grape behind Piedmont's Barolo and Barbaresco, prized for its tannic structure and aging potential.

Other notable additions include Garnacha (Grenache), a heat-loving red from Spain and southern France that thrives in warmer conditions; Marsanne and Roussanne, both white Rhône varieties that blend well for textured, full-bodied wines; and even lesser-known gems like Kerner, a German white hybrid with Riesling-like aromatics, and Zweigelt, an Austrian red that delivers juicy, spicy berry notes. Rounding out the roster are grapes such as Muscat Ottonel for fragrant whites, Petit Verdot for blending in Bordeaux-style reds, and Sauvignon Gris, a pink-skinned mutation of Sauvignon Blanc that adds unique tropical fruit dimensions.

This expansion didn't happen overnight. Ontario's wine regulations, overseen by the VQA, have long emphasized grapes suited to the province's cool, continental climate, which mirrors regions like Germany's Mosel or France's Burgundy. The VQA system, established in the 1980s, ensures quality and authenticity by mandating that wines labeled as such come from approved varieties grown in designated appellations like Niagara Peninsula, Prince Edward County, and Lake Erie North Shore. Until now, the approved list was relatively conservative, limiting innovation to hybrids like Vidal and Baco Noir, which are hardy against the region's harsh winters and late frosts.

The push for change stems from multiple factors, chief among them the undeniable impacts of climate change. Ontario's growing seasons are becoming warmer and longer, with rising temperatures allowing for the successful cultivation of varieties that might have struggled in the past. Winemakers have reported earlier bud breaks, extended ripening periods, and reduced risks from frost, creating conditions more amenable to Mediterranean and warmer-climate grapes. "We're seeing a shift in our climate that's opening up new possibilities," notes a prominent Niagara winemaker in discussions around the approval. "These new varieties aren't just about novelty; they're about resilience and adapting to what the future holds."

Consumer demand plays a pivotal role as well. Today's wine drinkers are more adventurous than ever, seeking out unique expressions beyond the familiar Cabernet Sauvignon or Merlot. The rise of natural wines, orange wines, and skin-contact styles has fueled interest in obscure grapes, and Ontario producers are eager to tap into this trend. By incorporating varieties like Albariño or Sangiovese, wineries can craft wines that stand out on shelves and in tasting rooms, appealing to a global audience that values diversity. Moreover, this move aligns with broader industry goals of sustainability and economic growth. Ontario's wine sector contributes over $4 billion annually to the provincial economy, supporting thousands of jobs in agriculture, tourism, and hospitality. Expanding the grape repertoire could boost exports, attract more visitors to wine trails, and foster innovation in blending and winemaking techniques.

Industry insiders have greeted the news with enthusiasm, though not without some caveats. Thomas Bachelder, a respected winemaker with operations in Niagara and Oregon, highlights the potential for Tempranillo and Nebbiolo to thrive in Ontario's terroir. "These grapes need time to express themselves, but with our long, cool autumns, we could see some truly elegant interpretations," he explains. Similarly, Ann Sperling of Southbrook Vineyards sees opportunities in Chenin Blanc, drawing parallels to her experiences in South Africa. "It's a grape that loves acidity, which our soils provide in abundance. Imagine Ontario Chenin with that signature freshness— it could be a game-changer."

However, challenges remain. Not all varieties will adapt seamlessly to Ontario's variable weather. Nebbiolo, for instance, is notoriously late-ripening and sensitive to humidity, which could pose issues in wetter vintages. Winemakers will need to experiment with site selection, rootstocks, and canopy management to optimize yields and quality. There's also the question of market readiness: Will consumers embrace an Ontario Tempranillo alongside traditional Rioja? Education will be key, with wineries likely investing in tastings, tours, and storytelling to highlight these new offerings.

The approval process itself involved rigorous evaluation by the Ontario Grape Growers and VQA authorities, ensuring that only varieties with proven potential were added. This isn't the first expansion—previous updates have included grapes like Gewürztraminer and Gamay—but this batch is the most extensive to date, signaling a bolder vision for the future. Looking ahead, experts predict a ripple effect across Canada's wine regions. British Columbia, with its warmer Okanagan Valley, might follow suit, while emerging areas in Nova Scotia and Quebec could draw inspiration for their own varietal explorations.

For wine enthusiasts, the real excitement lies in the bottles to come. Imagine sipping a crisp Ontario Albariño on a summer patio, its saline minerality evoking coastal Spain, or uncorking a robust Nebbiolo-based red for a winter feast, its tar-and-roses complexity rivaling Italian classics. These new grapes promise to blend Ontario's unique sense of place—its limestone-rich soils, lake-moderated climates, and passionate producers—with global influences, creating wines that are distinctly Canadian yet universally appealing.

This development also underscores a broader narrative in the wine world: adaptation is essential. As climate patterns shift and tastes evolve, regions like Ontario are proving that tradition and innovation can coexist. By broadening its varietal choices, the province isn't just approving grapes; it's cultivating a more vibrant, resilient, and exciting wine culture. Whether you're a casual sipper or a serious collector, the next few vintages from Ontario are bound to surprise and delight, one innovative pour at a time.

In the grand scheme, this approval could position Ontario as a leader in New World winemaking, where flexibility meets quality. Wineries are already planting trial blocks, with the first commercial releases expected in the coming years. As one industry veteran puts it, "This is our chance to rewrite the rules and show the world what Ontario wine can be." With these new varieties in play, the future looks brighter—and more flavorful—than ever.

Read the Full The Globe and Mail Article at:
[ https://www.theglobeandmail.com/life/food-and-wine/article-ontario-approves-new-grape-varieties-broadening-choices-for-wine/ ]