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Aria in Buckhead has a new owner, same great food
//food-wine.news-articles.net/content/2025/07/31 .. in-buckhead-has-a-new-owner-same-great-food.html
Published in Food and Wine on Thursday, July 31st 2025 at 10:42 GMT by Atlanta Journal-Constitution🞛 This publication is a summary or evaluation of another publication 🞛 This publication contains editorial commentary or bias from the source
While it's a white-tablecloth restaurant, it's anything but stuffy. The personable, highly professional staff creates the atmosphere of a fun dinner party.
Under New Owner, Aria in Buckhead Isn’t Just the Same Old Song
In the ever-evolving landscape of Atlanta's fine dining scene, few establishments have maintained the kind of quiet elegance and culinary prestige as Aria in Buckhead. For over two decades, this beloved restaurant has been a cornerstone of sophisticated Southern cuisine, drawing in locals and visitors alike with its intimate ambiance and meticulously crafted dishes. But change, as they say, is the only constant, and Aria is proving that adage true under its new ownership. Far from resting on its laurels or recycling the "same old song," the restaurant is undergoing a thoughtful evolution that respects its roots while introducing fresh, innovative elements. This isn't a radical overhaul—think of it as a remix of a classic hit, where the melody remains familiar, but the rhythm has been invigorated with new beats.
Aria's story begins in 2000, when chef Gerry Klaskala opened the doors in a charming, understated space on East Andrews Drive. Klaskala, a veteran of Atlanta's culinary world with stints at renowned spots like Buckhead Diner and the Ritz-Carlton, envisioned Aria as a place where modern American cuisine could shine without pretension. The name "Aria," evoking a solo melody in opera, perfectly captured the restaurant's ethos: singular, elegant, and deeply personal. Over the years, it earned accolades from critics and diners, including consistent nods from the James Beard Foundation and a loyal following for signature dishes like the slow-roasted pork belly and the decadent lobster risotto. The dimly lit dining room, with its soft lighting and minimalist decor, became synonymous with romantic evenings and celebratory milestones. Yet, as Atlanta's food scene exploded with fusion concepts, farm-to-table experiments, and global influences, Aria faced the challenge of staying relevant without losing its soul.
Enter the new owner, Kathryn King, a hospitality entrepreneur with a proven track record in revitalizing legacy brands. King, who acquired Aria in early 2025 after Klaskala's retirement, brings a fresh perspective shaped by her experiences in New York and San Francisco's competitive dining markets. Previously, she spearheaded the turnaround of a historic bistro in Manhattan, blending tradition with contemporary twists that boosted both revenue and buzz. "Aria has always been about harmony—between flavors, between the kitchen and the dining room," King told me during a recent visit. "My goal isn't to rewrite the score but to add some new harmonies that make it sing even brighter for today's diners."
Under King's stewardship, the changes at Aria are subtle yet impactful, starting with the physical space. The dining room has undergone a gentle refresh: walls now feature soft, textured wallpapers in muted earth tones, evoking a modern take on Southern elegance, while new pendant lights cast a warmer glow over the tables. The bar area has been expanded slightly, introducing a cozy lounge vibe with plush seating for pre-dinner cocktails. It's not a full renovation— the original layout remains intact—but these tweaks create a more inviting atmosphere, especially for younger patrons who might have viewed Aria as a spot for special occasions only.
The real transformation, however, is on the menu, where executive chef Elena Ramirez, a rising star poached from a Michelin-starred kitchen in Chicago, has collaborated with King to infuse new energy. Ramirez, who trained under Klaskala as a sous chef years ago, honors the restaurant's heritage while incorporating global influences and seasonal, sustainable ingredients. Gone are a few dated staples, replaced by dishes that reflect Atlanta's diverse palate. For instance, the classic pork belly has evolved into a miso-glazed version, served with pickled radishes and a yuzu-infused jus, blending Southern comfort with Asian flair. "We're sourcing more from local Georgia farms, like heirloom tomatoes from Serenbe and heritage pork from White Oak Pastures," Ramirez explained. "It's about elevating what's already great without alienating our longtime fans."
A standout addition is the "Aria Duet" tasting menu, a five-course option priced at $125 per person (with wine pairings for an additional $75), designed for sharing. It kicks off with a chilled oyster amuse-bouche topped with cucumber granita and caviar, a nod to coastal Southern traditions but with a luxurious twist. The second course might feature a heirloom beet salad with whipped goat cheese, candied pecans, and a balsamic reduction—simple, yet bursting with texture and flavor. Entrees rotate seasonally; during my visit, I savored a pan-seared duck breast with fig compote, charred broccolini, and a port wine demi-glace, perfectly cooked to medium-rare with crispy skin that crackled under the fork. Vegetarian options have been expanded too, including a wild mushroom risotto with truffle essence and aged Parmesan, ensuring inclusivity for all diets.
Desserts, long a highlight at Aria, have been reimagined with playful creativity. The chocolate torte, a perennial favorite, now comes deconstructed with elements like salted caramel soil, raspberry coulis, and edible flowers, encouraging diners to mix and match. Pastry chef Marcus Hale, who joined from a boutique bakery in Midtown, emphasizes lighter, fruit-forward endings, such as a peach cobbler parfait layered with vanilla bean custard and almond streusel— a loving homage to Georgia's state fruit.
Beyond the food, service at Aria has been fine-tuned for a more personalized touch. Staff training now includes wine education from sommelier Lila Chen, whose curated list leans heavier on sustainable and biodynamic producers from regions like Oregon's Willamette Valley and France's Loire. "We're aiming for approachability," Chen said. "No more intimidation—just great recommendations that enhance the meal." The restaurant has also introduced a "chef's table" experience for up to six guests, offering a front-row seat to the kitchen's ballet, complete with storytelling from Ramirez about each dish's inspiration.
Patrons' reactions have been overwhelmingly positive, though not without some nostalgia for the old guard. Longtime regular Thomas Ellis, a Buckhead attorney, shared, "I was worried it would lose that intimate feel, but the new menu surprises without overwhelming. The duck was a revelation." Younger diners, like tech entrepreneur Mia Patel, appreciate the updates: "It's still classy, but now it feels current—like it could compete with spots in New York." Online reviews on platforms like Yelp and OpenTable echo this sentiment, with ratings holding steady at 4.8 stars, praising the balance of tradition and innovation.
King isn't stopping here. Future plans include pop-up events with guest chefs from across the South, a expanded cocktail program featuring house-infused spirits, and even a small retail component selling Aria-branded pantry staples like spice blends and preserves. Sustainability is a key focus, with initiatives to reduce food waste through partnerships with local compost programs and a commitment to zero single-use plastics by year's end.
In a city where restaurants come and go like summer storms, Aria's evolution under new ownership stands as a testament to thoughtful adaptation. It's not just surviving; it's thriving by harmonizing the past with the present. Whether you're a first-timer or a veteran fan, Aria invites you to experience its new tune—one that's familiar yet refreshingly new. As Atlanta's dining scene continues to crescendo, this Buckhead gem proves that sometimes, a change in key can make all the difference. (Word count: 1,048)
Read the Full Atlanta Journal-Constitution Article at:
[ https://www.ajc.com/food-and-dining/2025/07/under-new-owner-aria-in-buckhead-isnt-just-the-same-old-song/ ]
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