Exciting Wines Made From Some Of The Oldest Carmenere Vines In Chile

Published in Food and Wine on Thursday, July 31st 2025 at 22:42 GMT by Forbes
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One of the oldest wineries in Chile has gained lots of recent acclaim for their dry-farmed, old vine Carmenere wines.

Exciting Wines Made From Some of the Oldest Carmenère Vines in Chile

In the sun-drenched valleys of Chile, where the Andes cast long shadows over sprawling vineyards, a grape variety once thought lost to history is staging a remarkable comeback. Carmenère, the enigmatic red grape that vanished from its native Bordeaux in the 19th century due to phylloxera, found an unlikely sanctuary in South America. Today, some of the oldest Carmenère vines in the world—many over a century old—are producing wines that captivate connoisseurs with their depth, complexity, and a unique sense of place. These ancient vines, gnarled and resilient, are yielding bottles that blend tradition with innovation, offering a tantalizing glimpse into Chile's evolving wine scene.

The story of Carmenère in Chile is one of serendipity and rediscovery. Introduced to the country in the mid-1800s by French immigrants seeking to replicate Bordeaux's grandeur, the grape was mistakenly identified as Merlot for decades. It wasn't until 1994 that ampelographers confirmed its true identity, sparking a renaissance for what has become Chile's signature varietal. While younger plantings dominate much of the production, it's the ancient vines—particularly those in regions like the Maule Valley and Colchagua—that are generating the most excitement. These old-timers, often ungrafted and dry-farmed, have roots that delve deep into the alluvial soils, drawing on minerals and terroir that impart unparalleled character to the wines.

Take, for instance, the venerable vines in the Maule Valley, where some parcels date back to the early 1900s. Here, the climate is Mediterranean, with warm days and cool nights that allow Carmenère to ripen slowly, avoiding the green, herbaceous notes that plagued early Chilean expressions. Producers like Clos de Luz, a boutique winery committed to sustainable practices, are harnessing these old vines to craft wines that defy expectations. Their flagship Carmenère, sourced from vines planted in 1945, embodies the grape's potential: a deep ruby hue in the glass, with aromas of blackberries, roasted red peppers, and a hint of eucalyptus. On the palate, it's a symphony of ripe dark fruits, subtle spice from careful oak aging, and a velvety texture that lingers with notes of dark chocolate and tobacco. What sets it apart is the balance—acidity that keeps it fresh, tannins that are firm yet integrated, making it an ideal companion to grilled meats or aged cheeses.

Not far away, in the Colchagua Valley, another set of ancient Carmenère vines is making waves at Viña Ventisquero. Their "Grey" series draws from vines over 80 years old, planted on gravelly slopes that enhance drainage and concentrate flavors. The winemaker describes these vines as "living history," survivors of earthquakes, droughts, and the passage of time. The resulting wine is bold yet elegant, opening with intense aromas of black cherry, violet, and a distinctive green peppercorn edge that's signature to Carmenère. Tasting it reveals layers of complexity: juicy plum and cassis upfront, evolving into savory notes of olive tapenade and espresso, with a mineral backbone that speaks to the vine's deep-rooted heritage. At around 14% alcohol, it's powerful without being overwhelming, and its aging potential is impressive—decant it now for immediate pleasure, or cellar it for a decade to watch those flavors deepen.

These wines aren't just about nostalgia; they're pushing boundaries. In an era where climate change challenges viticulture worldwide, Chile's old Carmenère vines offer lessons in resilience. Many of these vineyards are farmed organically or biodynamically, eschewing chemical interventions to let the terroir shine. For example, at Casa Silva in Colchagua, their "Microterroir" Carmenère comes from a single block of vines planted in 1912. This wine is a masterclass in precision: fermented in small lots and aged in French oak, it boasts a bouquet of red fruits, mint, and subtle vanilla. The mouthfeel is supple, with fine-grained tannins and a vibrant acidity that cuts through richer dishes like lamb tagine or empanadas. Winemakers here emphasize minimal intervention, allowing the vines' natural vigor to express itself, resulting in wines that are not only exciting but also environmentally conscious.

Venturing further south to the Itata Valley, where the landscape turns more rugged and the vines even older—some predating the 20th century—producers like De Martino are reviving forgotten parcels. Their "Vigno" project focuses on old-vine Carmenère from dry-farmed sites, adhering to strict protocols that highlight authenticity. The De Martino Vigno Carmenère is a revelation: dark garnet in color, it exudes aromas of blackcurrant, bay leaf, and a touch of graphite. Flavors unfold with blackberry compote, licorice, and a smoky undertone from volcanic soils, finishing long and elegant. This wine exemplifies how old vines can produce lower yields but higher quality, concentrating the essence of the grape into something profound.

What makes these wines truly exciting is their versatility and storytelling power. Carmenère, with its medium body and herbal flair, bridges the gap between Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot, offering food-friendly options that pair beautifully with global cuisines. Imagine sipping a glass from Viña Maquis, whose old-vine Carmenère from vines planted in the 1920s features notes of ripe fig, paprika, and cedar. It's a wine that transports you to the Andean foothills, evoking the misty mornings and starry nights of Chilean wine country.

Experts in the field are buzzing about this trend. Sommeliers note that these old-vine expressions are gaining traction on international wine lists, from New York to London, where consumers seek out bottles with a narrative. "These vines have witnessed generations," says one Chilean enologist. "They give wines with soul—layers of flavor that young vines simply can't match." Indeed, the lower yields from old vines mean these wines are often produced in limited quantities, adding to their allure and collectibility.

As Chile continues to refine its Carmenère offerings, the focus on old vines signals a shift toward quality over quantity. Initiatives like the Carmenère Association are promoting these heritage sites, ensuring their preservation for future generations. Blends incorporating old-vine Carmenère with other Bordeaux varieties, such as Petit Verdot or Malbec, are also emerging, creating dynamic wines that honor tradition while embracing modernity.

In tasting rooms across Chile, visitors are treated to vertical tastings that showcase how these vines evolve over vintages, influenced by weather patterns and winemaking techniques. A recent vintage from Undurraga's old-vine parcel in Maipo Valley, for instance, highlights the grape's adaptability: aromas of blueberry and sage, with a palate of dark fruit, white pepper, and a silky finish. It's a testament to how careful stewardship can yield extraordinary results.

Ultimately, the excitement surrounding wines from Chile's oldest Carmenère vines lies in their ability to connect us to the past while pointing to a vibrant future. These are not just beverages; they are liquid history, bottled poetry from vines that have endured. For wine lovers seeking something beyond the ordinary, these Chilean gems offer an invitation to explore, savor, and celebrate a grape's triumphant return. Whether you're a seasoned collector or a curious novice, uncorking one of these bottles is like unlocking a treasure chest of flavors, each sip revealing the resilience and beauty of Chile's viticultural heritage. As the global wine world turns its gaze southward, these ancient vines stand as beacons of innovation, proving that sometimes, the oldest stories yield the most thrilling chapters.

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