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Not your dad's canned tuna: Tinned seafood is a fixture at this Charleston-area wine bar
//food-wine.news-articles.net/content/2025/07/30 .. -a-fixture-at-this-charleston-area-wine-bar.html
Published in Food and Wine on Wednesday, July 30th 2025 at 8:48 GMT by Post and Courier🞛 This publication is a summary or evaluation of another publication 🞛 This publication contains editorial commentary or bias from the source
Tinned seafood is a staple at Stems & Skins, a wine bar in North Charleston, South Carolina. It's also sold at Odd Duck, Whole Foods and Harris Teeter.
Tinned Seafood Takes Center Stage at Stems & Skins in North Charleston
In the heart of North Charleston's vibrant Park Circle neighborhood, a culinary trend that's been simmering on the global stage has found a passionate home at Stems & Skins. This cozy wine bar and eatery has become a beacon for enthusiasts of tinned seafood, transforming what was once considered a humble pantry staple into a sophisticated dining experience. Tinned seafood, preserved in cans or tins with oils, sauces, or brines, hails from traditions in Portugal, Spain, and beyond, where it's celebrated as conservas. At Stems & Skins, owners Joe and Katie Pastor have elevated this art form, making it accessible and exciting for locals and visitors alike. What started as a niche offering has blossomed into a menu highlight, drawing crowds eager to explore the depths of flavor hidden in these unassuming metal containers.
The allure of tinned seafood lies in its simplicity and quality. Unlike fresh seafood that demands immediate preparation, tinned varieties are caught at peak freshness, often by artisanal producers who prioritize sustainable practices. Sardines, mackerel, octopus, mussels, and even more exotic options like razor clams or sea urchin are sealed in tins, allowing flavors to meld over time. This preservation method not only extends shelf life but also intensifies tastes, creating a product that's ready to eat straight from the tin or incorporated into creative dishes. At Stems & Skins, the menu reflects this versatility, with selections sourced from top purveyors in Europe and increasingly from American producers who are catching on to the trend.
Stems & Skins opened its doors in 2015, born from the Pastors' shared love for natural wines and unfussy, flavorful food. Joe Pastor, with his background in the hospitality industry, envisioned a space that combined the casual vibe of a neighborhood bar with the sophistication of a European tapas spot. Katie, equally passionate, handles much of the operational side, ensuring the bar's ethos of approachability shines through. The name "Stems & Skins" nods to the world of wine—stems referring to glassware and skins to the skin-contact wines they champion—but it also evokes the raw, elemental nature of their food offerings. Tinned seafood fits perfectly into this philosophy, as it's unpretentious yet refined, much like the bar's dimly lit interior adorned with eclectic art and shelves lined with intriguing bottles.
Diving into the menu, one can't help but be captivated by the tinned seafood section, which has expanded over the years due to popular demand. A standout is the Portuguese sardines in olive oil, served simply with crusty bread, pickled vegetables, and perhaps a dollop of house-made aioli. These sardines, plump and silvery, offer a briny punch that's balanced by the richness of the oil. For the adventurous, there's the Spanish octopus in galician sauce, tender tentacles swimming in a tomato-based elixir spiced with paprika and garlic. The bar's staff encourages patrons to mix and match, creating personalized boards that might include mussels escabeche—pickled in vinegar with bay leaves and peppers—or mackerel fillets smoked and packed in sunflower oil. Prices are reasonable, with tins ranging from $8 to $20, making it an affordable luxury compared to fresh seafood counterparts.
What sets Stems & Skins apart is the thoughtful pairing of these tins with their extensive wine list. Natural wines, often funky and low-intervention, complement the seafood's bold flavors. A crisp albariño from Galicia might cut through the oiliness of anchovies, while an orange wine with skin contact echoes the earthy notes of tinned clams. Joe Pastor often shares stories behind each tin, educating diners on the producers. For instance, he might recount how a particular brand from Matosinhos, Portugal, uses hand-packed methods passed down through generations, ensuring minimal processing to preserve the fish's integrity. This narrative adds depth to the experience, turning a simple snack into a cultural journey.
The rise of tinned seafood at Stems & Skins mirrors a broader resurgence in the United States. Once relegated to emergency rations or budget meals, conservas have gained traction thanks to social media influencers, celebrity chefs, and a growing interest in sustainable eating. The COVID-19 pandemic accelerated this, as people stocked pantries with long-lasting proteins and discovered the joys of elevated snacking at home. In Charleston, a city renowned for its fresh Lowcountry seafood, tinned options provide a novel contrast—imported elegance meets local hospitality. Stems & Skins has capitalized on this, hosting tasting events where guests sample rare tins alongside wine flights. These gatherings foster a sense of community, with regulars swapping recommendations and newcomers wide-eyed at the variety.
Beyond the tins, the bar's menu incorporates seafood into inventive small plates. Imagine a salad of tinned tuna belly, ventresca, tossed with bitter greens, capers, and a lemon vinaigrette, or crostini topped with sardine pâté whipped with herbs and cream. The kitchen team, led by skilled chefs who rotate seasonal specials, ensures that nothing feels canned in the pejorative sense. Fresh elements like local radishes, artisanal cheeses, and house-cured meats round out the offerings, creating balanced meals that pair seamlessly with the bar's cocktail program. Yes, while wine is the star, creative drinks like a gin and tonic infused with seaweed essence nod to the oceanic theme.
Patrons rave about the atmosphere, describing Stems & Skins as a hidden gem where conversations flow as freely as the pours. On a typical evening, you might find a mix of young professionals, foodies, and families sharing plates at communal tables. One regular, a local artist, shared how discovering tinned razor clams changed her perception of seafood altogether—crisp, meaty, and unlike anything she'd tried fresh. Another visitor, traveling from out of state, praised the bar's role in demystifying conservas, making it less intimidating for beginners. The Pastors emphasize education, with staff trained to guide choices based on preferences, whether someone seeks mild flavors or bold, spicy profiles.
Sustainability is a key pillar here. Tinned seafood often comes from well-managed fisheries, reducing waste and overfishing pressures. Brands like Conservas de Cambados or Fishwife (an American upstart) prioritize ethical sourcing, which aligns with Stems & Skins' values. The bar even partners with local environmental groups for events, raising awareness about ocean health while showcasing how tinned products can be part of a responsible diet.
Looking ahead, the Pastors plan to expand their tinned seafood repertoire, perhaps introducing more domestic options or collaborating with chefs for pop-up dinners. As North Charleston's culinary scene continues to evolve, Stems & Skins stands as a testament to innovation rooted in tradition. It's not just about eating; it's about savoring the stories, the craftsmanship, and the unexpected delights that emerge from a simple tin. In a world of fast food and fleeting trends, this enduring appeal reminds us that some of the best flavors are those preserved with care, waiting to be uncovered.
For those venturing to Park Circle, a visit to Stems & Skins offers more than a meal—it's an invitation to explore the rich tapestry of global seafood culture, one tin at a time. Whether you're a seasoned aficionado or a curious novice, the bar's warm embrace and flavorful offerings ensure you'll leave with a newfound appreciation for this timeless delicacy.
Read the Full Post and Courier Article at:
[ https://www.postandcourier.com/food/tinned-seafood-stems-skins-north-charleston/article_93fd841b-1959-4def-b217-53b995083ded.html ]