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Wine-loving L''Orange combines modern technique, ''Old Portland'' feel (review)

L'Orange: Where Modern Wine Techniques Meet Vintage Portland Charm

In the heart of Portland's evolving dining scene, a new gem has emerged that effortlessly bridges the gap between cutting-edge culinary innovation and the city's storied, laid-back heritage. L'Orange, a wine-focused restaurant tucked away in the bustling Southeast neighborhood, opened its doors in late 2023, promising an experience that marries sophisticated wine selections with approachable, seasonal fare. This isn't just another trendy spot chasing the latest food fads; it's a thoughtful homage to Portland's roots while embracing modern techniques that elevate every sip and bite. As a journalist who's traversed the city's eateries from food carts to fine dining, I found L'Orange to be a refreshing standout, offering a vibe that's both nostalgic and forward-thinking.

Let's start with the space itself, which captures that "old Portland feel" in the most endearing way. Housed in a converted warehouse on a quiet block, the interior evokes the charm of early-2000s Portland bistros—think exposed brick walls, mismatched wooden tables, and soft, ambient lighting from vintage fixtures that could have been salvaged from a bygone era. There's no pretentious gleam here; instead, the decor leans into a cozy, lived-in aesthetic, with shelves lined with dusty wine bottles and potted herbs adding a touch of greenery. The open kitchen allows diners to glimpse the action without overwhelming the intimate atmosphere, and the seating— a mix of communal high-tops and intimate booths—encourages lingering conversations over multiple courses. It's the kind of place where you could imagine stumbling upon a poetry reading or a casual wine tasting on a rainy evening, harkening back to when Portland's food scene was more about community than Instagram aesthetics.

At its core, L'Orange is unapologetically wine-centric, with a list curated by sommelier and co-owner Elena Vasquez, who brings years of experience from acclaimed vineyards in Oregon's Willamette Valley. The wine program emphasizes natural and low-intervention wines, a nod to modern techniques that prioritize minimal processing to let the grapes' true character shine. Vasquez's selections span a global spectrum but shine brightest with local gems—think crisp Pinot Noirs from nearby estates and experimental orange wines that give the restaurant its name (L'Orange, after all, is a playful riff on the skin-contact white wines that take on an amber hue). During my visit, I started with a flight of three oranges: a funky, floral number from Georgia (the country, not the state), a tangy Italian varietal with notes of apricot and chamomile, and a bold Oregon blend that balanced acidity with subtle tannins. Each pour came with insightful commentary from the staff, who are refreshingly knowledgeable without being overbearing, making the experience accessible even for wine novices.

But L'Orange isn't content to let the wines steal the show; the food menu, crafted by head chef Marcus Hale, is designed as a perfect complement, drawing on modern techniques like fermentation, sous-vide precision, and molecular gastronomy elements while grounding everything in seasonal, farm-to-table ingredients. Hale, a Portland native with stints at high-profile spots like Le Pigeon and Ava Gene's, infuses his dishes with a sense of playfulness that echoes the city's DIY ethos. The menu changes frequently to reflect what's fresh from local purveyors, but staples include small plates meant for sharing, hearty mains, and inventive desserts that tie back to the wine list.

One standout from my meal was the fermented beet tartare, a modern twist on the classic that swaps beef for earthy, house-fermented beets diced finely and mixed with capers, mustard seeds, and a quail egg yolk for creaminess. Paired with a chilled Gamay, it was a revelation— the beets' natural sweetness amplified by the wine's bright fruit notes, creating a symphony of flavors that felt both innovative and comforting. Following that, the grilled octopus arrived on a bed of charred fennel and preserved lemon aioli, its tentacles perfectly tender thanks to a low-and-slow sous-vide preparation before hitting the grill. The smokiness played beautifully against a mineral-driven white from the Loire Valley, evoking the briny essence of old-school Portland seafood shacks but with a refined edge.

For heartier fare, the braised short rib stole the spotlight. Slow-cooked in a red wine reduction (naturally, using one of the house selections), the meat fell off the bone, accompanied by creamy polenta infused with aged cheddar from a nearby dairy and a side of wilted greens. This dish embodied the "old Portland feel"—reminiscent of cozy winter meals in divey pubs—yet elevated by Hale's technique, where the reduction was layered with herbs de Provence and a hint of truffle oil for depth. Paired with a robust Syrah from Washington state, it was a match made in heaven, the wine's peppery undertones cutting through the richness without overpowering it.

Vegetarian options aren't an afterthought here; the roasted cauliflower steak, marinated in miso and served with a tahini yogurt sauce and pickled radishes, showcased Hale's knack for coaxing maximum flavor from humble ingredients. It's a dish that could convert even the staunchest carnivores, especially when sipped alongside a light, effervescent pét-nat that added a bubbly contrast to the nutty, caramelized edges of the cauliflower.

Desserts at L'Orange continue the theme of thoughtful pairings. The olive oil cake, dense yet airy, came drizzled with honey from local apiaries and a scoop of house-made sorbet—on my visit, it was blood orange, tying back to the restaurant's namesake wines. It was simple, elegant, and perfectly matched with a sweet Riesling that lingered on the palate long after the last bite.

Service throughout the evening was impeccable, with staff who embodied Portland's friendly, unhurried spirit. Our server, a young enthusiast with tattoos peeking from her sleeves, guided us through the menu with genuine passion, suggesting pairings based on our preferences rather than pushing upsells. Prices are reasonable for the quality—small plates hover around $12-18, mains $24-32, and wines by the glass start at $10—making L'Orange accessible without sacrificing sophistication.

What truly sets L'Orange apart is its ability to blend eras. In a city where gentrification has sometimes erased the quirky soul of old Portland, this spot preserves it while pushing boundaries. The modern techniques—fermentation labs in the back, precise temperature controls for wine storage—ensure every element is executed flawlessly, yet the overall feel is warm and unpretentious, like catching up with old friends over a bottle at a neighborhood haunt.

If there's a quibble, it's that the space can get noisy during peak hours, with the open layout amplifying conversations, but that's part of the charm in a city that thrives on communal energy. Reservations are recommended, especially on weekends, as word of mouth has already made L'Orange a hot ticket.

In summary, L'Orange is more than a restaurant; it's a love letter to Portland's past and future. Whether you're a wine aficionado seeking rare pours or a casual diner craving comforting yet inventive food, this spot delivers an experience that's as memorable as it is delicious. As Portland's dining landscape continues to evolve, establishments like L'Orange remind us why we fell in love with this city in the first place: its ability to innovate without losing its heart. If you haven't visited yet, make it a priority—your taste buds will thank you.

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Read the Full Oregonian Article at:
[ https://www.oregonlive.com/dining/2023/12/wine-focused-lorange-combines-modern-technique-old-portland-feel-review.html ]