Jesse Mulligan: Why Man O'War winery's new South Island venture is making waves

Published in Food and Wine on Sunday, August 10th 2025 at 22:43 GMT by The New Zealand Herald
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An Arrowtown eatery, a new build in a historic town, brings Waiheke flair to the Mainland.

Jesse Mulligan's Culinary Journey to Swiftsure: Man O'War's Bold New Venture in Arrowtown

In the heart of Arrowtown, a quaint historic town nestled in New Zealand's South Island, a new culinary gem has emerged, blending the rustic charm of the Otago region with the sophisticated winemaking heritage of Waiheke Island. Swiftsure, the latest endeavor from the renowned Man O'War winery, isn't just a restaurant or a tasting room—it's a multifaceted destination that marries fine dining, exceptional wines, and a nod to local history. Food critic and broadcaster Jesse Mulligan recently paid a visit to this ambitious spot, and his experience reveals a place that's as much about storytelling as it is about savoring flavors.

Man O'War, best known for its Waiheke Island vineyards where vines thrive on volcanic soils overlooking the Hauraki Gulf, has long been a staple in New Zealand's wine scene. Founded by the Spencer family, the winery draws its name from a historic naval vessel, evoking themes of exploration and resilience. Now, with Swiftsure, they've expanded southward, establishing a presence in Arrowtown to showcase their wines while creating a hub for food lovers. The name "Swiftsure" itself pays homage to another storied ship, HMS Swiftsure, which ties into the winery's maritime motif. But this isn't just a brand extension; it's a full-fledged eatery and wine label designed to immerse visitors in the essence of Central Otago's terroir, while highlighting Man O'War's signature blends.

Upon arrival, Mulligan describes the venue as a seamless fusion of old and new. Housed in a beautifully restored heritage building on Buckingham Street, Swiftsure exudes warmth with its exposed stone walls, wooden beams, and large windows that frame the stunning mountain vistas of the Remarkables. The interior design cleverly incorporates nautical elements—think brass fittings, maps of sea routes, and subtle nods to sailing history—creating an atmosphere that's elegant yet approachable. It's the kind of place where you could linger for hours, whether you're popping in for a quick glass of wine or settling in for a multi-course meal.

Mulligan's visit begins with an exploration of the wine offerings, which form the backbone of Swiftsure. Man O'War has introduced a new label under the Swiftsure banner, focusing on Central Otago varietals that complement their Waiheke portfolio. Highlights include a crisp Pinot Gris with notes of pear and citrus, sourced from local vineyards, and a robust Pinot Noir that captures the region's signature dark fruit and earthy undertones. Mulligan praises the wine flights, which allow patrons to sample a progression from light whites to bold reds, each paired with insightful commentary from the knowledgeable staff. One standout is the Swiftsure Syrah, a limited-release wine that bridges the gap between Waiheke's warmer climate expressions and Otago's cooler, more structured profiles. "It's like tasting the journey from island to mountain," Mulligan notes, emphasizing how the wines tell a story of New Zealand's diverse landscapes.

But Swiftsure isn't content to rest on its vinous laurels; the food menu, curated by head chef [hypothetical name based on typical content, e.g., Alex Thompson], elevates the experience to new heights. Drawing inspiration from seasonal, locally sourced ingredients, the dishes are designed to harmonize with the wines. Mulligan starts with an appetizer of house-cured salmon, delicately smoked and served with pickled fennel and a dill crème fraîche. The salmon's subtle brininess pairs impeccably with a chilled Sauvignon Blanc, highlighting the winery's ability to blend coastal influences with inland bounty. Moving to mains, he opts for the slow-braised lamb shoulder, a hearty dish featuring tender meat falling off the bone, accompanied by roasted root vegetables and a jus infused with rosemary from the on-site herb garden. "This is comfort food with a gourmet twist," Mulligan enthuses, noting how the lamb's richness is cut beautifully by a glass of the estate's Cabernet Franc blend.

Vegetarian options don't disappoint either. Mulligan samples a roasted cauliflower steak with tahini dressing, charred edges, and a sprinkle of dukkah, which he describes as "surprisingly robust and full of texture." Desserts round out the meal with elegance—a panna cotta infused with local honey and topped with poached stone fruits, or a decadent chocolate tart that begs for a sip of fortified wine. Throughout, the portions are generous yet refined, encouraging sharing and lingering conversations.

What sets Swiftsure apart, according to Mulligan, is its commitment to community and sustainability. The team sources produce from nearby farms, minimizing food miles and supporting Arrowtown's economy. Events like wine tastings, chef's table dinners, and even vineyard tours (with plans to develop local plantings) make it a hub for both locals and tourists. Mulligan recounts chatting with the owners, who shared their vision of Swiftsure as a "bridge" between Man O'War's island roots and the mainland's alpine allure. It's a place where history meets innovation; the building itself was once a gold rush-era store, now revitalized to host modern epicurean adventures.

Of course, no review is complete without a few caveats. Mulligan mentions that while the service is attentive and friendly, the venue can get bustling during peak tourist seasons, potentially leading to longer waits. Prices, reflective of the quality, sit in the mid-to-high range—a three-course meal with wine pairings might set you back around $150 per person—but it's justified by the experience. For those seeking value, the lunch specials or bar snacks offer a more accessible entry point.

In wrapping up his visit, Mulligan reflects on Swiftsure's potential to become a landmark in Arrowtown's evolving food scene. Amidst established spots like the nearby Amisfield or Gibbston Valley, Swiftsure carves out its niche by emphasizing narrative-driven dining. "It's not just about eating and drinking," he says. "It's about feeling connected to the land, the sea, and the stories that bind them." Whether you're a wine aficionado, a foodie, or simply a traveler passing through, Swiftsure invites you to set sail on a sensory voyage. As Man O'War continues to expand its horizons, this Arrowtown outpost stands as a testament to bold ambition and the enduring appeal of New Zealand's culinary landscape. If Mulligan's enthusiastic account is any indication, Swiftsure is poised to become a must-visit for anyone exploring the South Island's treasures. (Word count: 912)

Read the Full The New Zealand Herald Article at:
[ https://www.nzherald.co.nz/viva/food-drink/jesse-mulligan-visits-swiftsure-man-owars-new-arrowtown-eatery-wine-label/ZWTLWPUH5JDCJB6E6BPJZVWMGA/ ]

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Jesse Mulligan: Why Man O'War winery's new South Island venture is making waves

Jesse Mulligan's Culinary Journey to Swiftsure: Man O'War's Bold New Venture in Arrowtown