Wine, etc.: Traditional and modern styles bring variety to Rioja

Published in Food and Wine on Tuesday, August 12th 2025 at 7:39 GMT by The Baltimore Sun
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Traditional and modern styles bring variety to Rioja

Exploring the Diversity of Rioja Wines: Traditional and Modern Styles in Harmony

Rioja, one of Spain's most renowned wine regions, has long been celebrated for its red wines, primarily made from the Tempranillo grape. Nestled in northern Spain along the Ebro River, the area benefits from a diverse climate influenced by the Atlantic and Mediterranean, creating ideal conditions for viticulture. The region's wines have evolved significantly over the decades, blending time-honored traditions with innovative modern approaches. This fusion not only preserves Rioja's heritage but also introduces exciting variety, appealing to a broad spectrum of wine enthusiasts—from those who savor the complexity of aged classics to those who prefer vibrant, fruit-driven expressions.

At the heart of Rioja's traditional style is a deep respect for oak aging, a practice that dates back centuries. Wines classified as Crianza, Reserva, and Gran Reserva undergo extended periods in barrel and bottle, developing nuanced flavors of vanilla, leather, and dried fruit. For instance, a classic Rioja Reserva might spend at least one year in oak and two more in bottle before release, resulting in a silky texture and elegant tannins that soften over time. These wines often hail from subregions like Rioja Alta, where cooler temperatures yield grapes with higher acidity, perfect for long aging. Producers like López de Heredia embody this old-school ethos, crafting wines that evoke the essence of Spain's winemaking past. Their Viña Tondonia, for example, is aged for years in American oak, emerging with notes of cedar, tobacco, and subtle spice, paired beautifully with hearty dishes like lamb or aged cheeses.

Yet, Rioja is not stuck in the past. The modern style, which gained momentum in the late 20th century, emphasizes fruit purity and freshness, often minimizing oak influence to let the grape's natural characteristics shine. Influenced by global trends and New World techniques, winemakers experiment with shorter macerations, stainless steel fermentation, and even international grape varieties like Cabernet Sauvignon blended with Tempranillo. This approach appeals to younger consumers and international markets seeking approachable, everyday wines. In Rioja Alavesa, with its chalky soils and warmer microclimates, modern producers like Artadi focus on single-vineyard expressions that highlight terroir. Their wines burst with ripe cherry, blackberry, and floral aromas, offering immediate drinkability without the need for cellar time.

This dichotomy between traditional and modern styles isn't divisive; rather, it enriches Rioja's portfolio. The region's regulatory body, the Consejo Regulador, has adapted by introducing categories like "Vino de Municipio" and "Viñedos Singulares," which allow for more precise labeling of origin, encouraging innovation while maintaining quality standards. Winemakers often straddle both worlds—take Bodegas Muga, which produces both oak-aged Reservas and fresher, unoaked options. This variety ensures Rioja remains dynamic, capable of pairing with diverse cuisines, from tapas to fusion dishes.

Tasting through Rioja's spectrum reveals its versatility. A traditional Gran Reserva, such as one from Marqués de Murrieta, might unfold layers of balsamic notes, earthiness, and a long, velvety finish, ideal for contemplative sipping. In contrast, a modern Tempranillo from Remírez de Ganuza could dazzle with vibrant red fruit, hints of licorice, and a juicy acidity that makes it perfect for casual gatherings. White Riojas, often overlooked, add another dimension—traditional versions aged in oak offer creamy textures with nutty undertones, while modern ones, made from Viura or Malvasia, deliver crisp citrus and herbal freshness.

The evolution of Rioja reflects broader shifts in the wine world, where globalization and climate change challenge producers to innovate. Warmer vintages have prompted some to harvest earlier or plant at higher altitudes, preserving acidity in modern styles. Meanwhile, traditionalists argue that extended aging mitigates vintage variations, ensuring consistency. This balance has propelled Rioja's exports, with the U.S. market embracing both ends of the spectrum. For collectors, aged vintages from the 1960s or 1970s demonstrate remarkable longevity, while newcomers can explore affordable entry-level wines that capture the region's spirit.

Beyond the glass, Rioja's cultural significance enhances its appeal. The annual harvest festivals in towns like Logroño celebrate centuries-old traditions, where locals stomp grapes and share communal meals. Modern wineries, with sleek tasting rooms and sustainable practices, attract tourists seeking immersive experiences. Sustainability is increasingly central, with many estates adopting organic farming to combat environmental pressures, ensuring the region's legacy endures.

In essence, Rioja's strength lies in its ability to honor tradition while embracing change. Whether you're drawn to the meditative depth of an aged Reserva or the lively energy of a fruit-forward modern blend, the region offers something for every palate. This variety not only sustains Rioja's prestige but also invites exploration, proving that in wine, as in life, diversity is the spice that keeps things interesting. As the region continues to evolve, it stands as a testament to the enduring allure of Spanish winemaking, where history and innovation coalesce into bottles of pure delight. (Word count: 728)

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