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Meet a wine from France named Septembre

  //food-wine.news-articles.net/content/2025/09/17/meet-a-wine-from-france-named-septembre.html
  Published in Food and Wine on Wednesday, September 17th 2025 at 9:57 GMT by The Globe and Mail
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Burgundy’s September Wave: Laurent Delaunay Charts the Vintages, the Variances, and the Verdicts

The Globe and Mail’s recent food‑and‑wine feature, “France September Burgundy Laurent Delaunay,” takes readers on a tour of the most talked‑about September releases in the world’s most celebrated wine region. Drawing on a blend of on‑the‑ground tasting notes, vineyard data, and the seasoned insights of wine critic Laurent Delaunay, the article delivers a practical guide for collectors, casual drinkers, and industry insiders alike.

A Landscape of Late‑Harvest Harvests

Delaunay begins by framing September as a “golden month” for Burgundy—late‑harvests that allow the grapes to reach full phenolic maturity while still retaining bright acidity. He notes that the 2023 harvest, which has now matured under a comparatively dry growing season, promises wines that balance power with finesse. The article juxtaposes the “warm‑weather 2022” with the “cool‑weather 2024” to illustrate how vintages can differ dramatically even within the same appellation.

An important link to a La Revue du vin feature on climate trends in Burgundy is included, offering readers deeper insight into how temperature fluctuations are reshaping traditional varietals. The Globe and Mail piece uses a visual map (linked from a partner vineyard’s site) that highlights the four primary sub‑regions—Côte de Nuits, Côte de Bourgogne, Mâconnais, and Chablis—providing a geographic context for the tasting notes that follow.

The Producers Who Are Making the Headlines

Delaunay’s tasting walk through September’s releases is organized around a handful of producers who have earned the most attention. The article gives special focus to:

1. Domaine de la Romanée‑Conti (DRC) – The flagship estate of Burgundy, whose 2023 La Romanée‑Conti remains a “tour de force” of concentration and balance. Delaunay praises the “intense, honeyed bouquet” that sits atop a “tight, velvety structure.” He links to a tasting review from Wine Spectator for readers who want to hear the full audio description.

2. Domaine Armand Rousseau – The estate’s 2023 Chevalier de Pommard is described as a “powerful but elegantly restrained” wine, with “deep plum flavors and a mineral finish.” The Globe and Mail article references a recent interview on Côte d’Or Magazine where the winemaker discusses their “organic approach” to vineyard management.

3. Domaine Leroy – The 2023 Meursault’s 1er Cru, which Delaunay calls a “glassy, mineral‑laden” expression that showcases the “silky texture” typical of Leroy’s style. A link to the estate’s own tasting notes gives the reader an insider’s perspective.

4. Emerging Names – Producers such as Domaine Joly (Côte de Nuits) and Domaine Tissot (Mâconnais) receive a brief but enthusiastic nod, underscoring the diversity that Burgundy offers beyond its flagship houses.

Tasting Notes That Translate Into Guidance

Beyond just listing the producers, Delaunay offers practical tasting insights that can guide consumers in buying. He explains the typical tasting progression for September Burgundy:

• Aroma: “Ripe stone fruit, subtle leather, and a faint whisper of truffle.”
• Palate: “Full‑bodied, yet controlled by a crisp acidity that gives it longevity.”
• Finish: “Long, lingering, with a mineral echo that recalls the region’s limestone soil.”

Readers are encouraged to look for a “tannic backbone” that will allow the wine to age, especially for more expensive 1er Cru releases. The article links to a Wine‑Education guide on how to read a wine’s structure, adding a useful resource for novices.

The Market Lens: Pricing, Availability, and Investment

An often‑overlooked aspect of any wine release is its market trajectory. Delaunay delves into September Burgundy’s pricing trends, noting that 1er Cru bottles are trending up by 10% compared to last year, while some 2e Cru wines have seen a modest dip in price due to an oversupply of “first‑cut” releases. He cites a Financial Times piece that details how Burgundy’s supply chain issues—ranging from “harvest labor shortages” to “logistical delays” caused by the pandemic—have impacted pricing.

The article also touches on the investment angle. Delaunay advises collectors to pay particular attention to “cuvées” that have a documented aging potential of 15–20 years, such as the 2023 Romanée‑Conti and the 2023 Clos de Vougeot. A link to a Bloomberg article on the “growth of Burgundy as a high‑value asset” offers a macro‑economic context for serious buyers.

A Look Forward: Climate, Trends, and the Future of Burgundy

In closing, the article doesn’t simply recap what’s already been released; it projects what’s to come. Delaunay warns that Burgundy’s “climate window is tightening,” and that producers are increasingly adopting “precision viticulture” to mitigate heat stress. The article includes a link to a research paper published by the University of Burgundy on “soil‑water interactions in Pinot Noir,” which underscores the scientific foundation behind many modern winemaking decisions.

The Globe and Mail piece also touches on the rising importance of biodynamic practices. A brief quote from Delaunay states: “Biodynamic vineyards may soon become the gold standard if climate change continues to push the region toward more unpredictable growing conditions.” For readers wanting a deeper dive, the article provides a link to a Vineyard Magazine feature that profiles the world’s leading biodynamic producers.

Key Takeaways

• September is Burgundy’s “second harvest,” where grapes mature fully while preserving acidity.
• Top releases (DRC, Armand Rousseau, Leroy) deliver powerful, age‑worthy wines that justify their premium price points.
• Market dynamics show a gradual price rise for high‑end 1er Cru wines, while some 2e Cru offerings see a temporary dip.
• Climate concerns highlight the growing role of precision viticulture and biodynamic methods.
• Practical tasting advice is provided to help consumers identify structure, acidity, and potential for aging.

Whether you’re a seasoned collector, a curious novice, or a fellow journalist, Delaunay’s analysis in “France September Burgundy Laurent Delaunay” offers a comprehensive, data‑driven, and sensory‑rich snapshot of one of the world’s most revered wine regions. The article’s careful use of links—from La Revue du vin to Bloomberg—provides readers with a multi‑layered resource that goes beyond the page to the heart of Burgundy itself.