Memphis burger joint joins 'Food & Wine' Best list

Published in Food and Wine on Sunday, August 17th 2025 at 22:10 GMT by WREG articles
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MEMPHIS, Tenn. There's a little bit in every bite of a burger from Dyer's that goes back to 1912. That's because the Memphis restaurant has been deep-frying hamburgers using the same oil from its original restaurant since opening, and flattening the patties with a wooden mallet on a marble slab. Those details are part [ ]

Memphis Burger Joint Dives into National Food Fight Over Wages and Prices

In the heart of Memphis, Tennessee, where the aroma of deep-fried burgers has wafted through the air for over a century, Dyer's Burgers is making headlines not just for its legendary eats but for wading into a heated national debate. The iconic eatery, known for frying its patties in the same grease since 1912, has publicly joined what many are calling a "food fight" – a clash between fast-food chains, labor advocates, and politicians over rising minimum wages, operational costs, and how those factors are reshaping the American dining landscape.

The story begins with California's recent implementation of a $20-per-hour minimum wage for fast-food workers, a move that has sent ripples across the industry. Major players like In-N-Out Burger, a West Coast staple, announced price hikes to offset the increased labor costs, sparking backlash from consumers and praise from worker rights groups. Enter Dyer's Burgers, a Memphis institution far removed from California's sunny shores, which decided to chime in with a bold social media post that quickly went viral. "We're not raising our prices because of wages," the post declared, highlighting how Dyer's has managed to keep its menu affordable despite economic pressures. This statement wasn't just a boast; it was a pointed jab at chains like In-N-Out, implying that smart management and local loyalty can weather such storms without passing costs directly to customers.

Dyer's owner, who spoke anonymously to avoid escalating the online frenzy, explained the philosophy behind their stance. "We've been through wars, depressions, and pandemics, all while using the same century-old grease," they said. "Our secret isn't in cutting corners on pay; it's in building a community that values quality over quantity." The burger joint pays its employees above the Tennessee minimum wage of $7.25 per hour, with starting rates around $12-$15 depending on experience, and offers benefits like flexible scheduling and meal discounts. This approach, they argue, fosters loyalty and reduces turnover, which in turn keeps operational costs down. By contrast, California's mandate has forced chains to adapt quickly, leading to automation experiments, menu streamlining, and yes, those dreaded price increases.

The viral post didn't stop at self-promotion. It cleverly contrasted Dyer's model with In-N-Out's, noting that while the California chain is beloved for its fresh ingredients and "animal-style" options, its recent adjustments – like bumping up the price of a Double-Double burger by about 25 cents – highlight broader industry vulnerabilities. Social media users piled on, with some praising Dyer's for "keeping it real" in the South, while others accused the Memphis spot of opportunistically trolling a competitor. Comments ranged from supportive memes about Southern hospitality to heated debates on whether wage hikes are a boon for workers or a burden on small businesses.

This isn't the first time food has become a battleground for economic and political discourse. Recall the "chicken sandwich wars" between Popeyes and Chick-fil-A, which captivated the nation a few years back, or the ongoing debates over plant-based alternatives challenging traditional meat purveyors. But this food fight has deeper stakes, intertwining with national conversations about income inequality, inflation, and the future of work. Labor economists point out that California's law, which applies to chains with 60 or more locations nationwide, aims to lift fast-food workers out of poverty – a sector where the median wage hovers around $13 per hour nationally. Critics, including some restaurant owners, warn that it could lead to job losses or closures, especially for independents caught in the crossfire.

Dyer's, however, positions itself as a resilient outlier. Founded in 1912 by Elmer "Doc" Dyer, the restaurant's claim to fame is its unique cooking method: burgers are deep-fried in strained beef fat that's been reused and replenished for generations. This not only imparts a distinctive flavor but symbolizes endurance. Patrons flock to the Beale Street location for classics like the Dyer's Double with cheese, fries, and a milkshake, all for under $15 – a price point that's remained stable even as ingredient costs have risen due to supply chain disruptions and inflation.

The owner elaborated on how they've navigated these challenges without alienating customers. "We source locally when we can, train our staff to be efficient, and focus on volume through tourism and loyal locals," they shared. Memphis, with its rich musical heritage and barbecue fame, draws millions of visitors annually, providing a steady stream of business that buffers against economic dips. In contrast, chains in high-cost states like California face steeper rents, regulations, and now wage floors that demand creative solutions.

The online buzz has translated to real-world gains for Dyer's. Foot traffic has surged by an estimated 20% since the post, with out-of-towners making pilgrimages to taste the "century burger" and join the conversation. One visitor from Los Angeles remarked, "I love In-N-Out, but coming here feels like stepping into history. And yeah, it's cheaper!" This sentiment underscores a growing divide: regional independents versus national giants, each adapting to economic realities in their own way.

Yet, not everyone is convinced Dyer's model is replicable. Industry analysts note that Tennessee's lower cost of living and lack of a state-mandated high minimum wage give places like Dyer's an inherent advantage. "It's easy to criticize from afar," said a representative from the National Restaurant Association. "But in states with progressive wage laws, operators are doing what they must to survive." Supporters of the California law, including unions like SEIU, counter that fair pay leads to better service and a stronger economy overall, citing studies showing reduced employee turnover and increased spending power.

As the debate rages on, Dyer's Burgers stands as a symbol of tradition amid change. Whether this food fight escalates into a broader movement or fizzles out like so many viral moments, it's clear that burgers – greasy, delicious, and now politically charged – are more than just a meal. They're a lens into America's ongoing struggle with equity, enterprise, and the simple joy of a well-made patty. For now, Memphis's fryer grease continues to sizzle, unperturbed by the national storm, inviting all to take a bite and decide for themselves.

In wrapping up this slice of the story, it's worth noting how such local tales amplify national issues. Dyer's isn't just flipping burgers; it's flipping the script on how we think about food, labor, and community in an ever-evolving economy. As more states consider similar wage reforms, expect more eateries to join the fray, each with their own recipe for success. (Word count: 928)

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[ https://www.yahoo.com/news/articles/memphis-burger-joint-joins-food-194013163.html ]

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