In Angers, working-class restaurants are slowly disappearing

Published in Food and Wine on Friday, August 15th 2025 at 19:38 GMT by Le Monde.fr
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Since the Covid-19 pandemic, about 10 establishments that offered full meals at affordable prices have closed across the city. Inflation, meal vouchers now usable in supermarkets and the changing lifestyles of young workers have taken their toll on these eateries.

The Slow Fade of Working-Class Restaurants in Angers

In the heart of Angers, a city in western France known for its medieval château and vibrant cultural scene, a quieter transformation is underway. The traditional "restaurants ouvriers" – affordable eateries that have long served as lifelines for blue-collar workers, truck drivers, and locals seeking hearty, no-frills meals – are vanishing one by one. These establishments, often tucked away in unassuming neighborhoods or along industrial outskirts, once epitomized the egalitarian spirit of French dining, where a three-course meal could be had for under 15 euros, complete with a glass of wine and a slice of camaraderie. But economic pressures, changing urban landscapes, and shifting consumer habits are eroding this culinary heritage, leaving a void in the social fabric of the community.

Take Le Relais des Routiers, a fixture on the outskirts of Angers for over five decades. Its faded sign, depicting a truck and a steaming plate, still beckons passersby, but inside, the once-bustling dining room now echoes with emptiness during lunch hours. Owner Michel Dupont, a grizzled veteran of the hospitality trade, recalls the glory days when factory workers from nearby plants would flood in for steak frites or coq au vin, sharing stories over Formica tables. "We were more than a restaurant; we were a hub," he says, his voice tinged with nostalgia. "People came not just to eat, but to connect. Now, with rising costs and fewer workers in the area, it's a struggle to keep the doors open."

The decline isn't isolated to Le Relais. Across Angers, similar spots like Chez Marie and L'Auberge du Coin have shuttered in recent years, their spaces repurposed into trendy cafés or chain fast-food outlets. According to local observers, at least a dozen such restaurants have closed since the early 2010s, with more teetering on the brink. The reasons are multifaceted. Soaring real estate prices in Angers, fueled by the city's growing appeal as a commuter hub to Nantes and Paris, have driven up rents, making it untenable for low-margin businesses to survive. Inflation has compounded the issue, with ingredient costs – from beef to butter – skyrocketing, while the traditional clientele dwindles.

A key factor is the evolution of work itself. Angers, once a stronghold of manufacturing with factories producing everything from electronics to textiles, has seen deindustrialization accelerate. Many plants have relocated or automated, reducing the number of shift workers who relied on these restaurants for quick, affordable sustenance. "The lunch break crowd is gone," explains Sophie Laurent, a sociologist at the University of Angers who studies urban food cultures. "Younger workers prefer grab-and-go options or home-cooked meals, influenced by health trends and remote work. Meanwhile, immigrants and gig economy drivers, who might have filled the gap, often turn to cheaper alternatives like food trucks or ethnic eateries."

This shift reflects broader changes in French society. Working-class restaurants trace their roots to the post-World War II era, when they catered to the burgeoning industrial workforce. They were places where social classes mingled – a mechanic might dine alongside a teacher – fostering a sense of community in an increasingly stratified world. In Angers, these spots were particularly vital in neighborhoods like La Roseraie or Monplaisir, where low-income families and retirees gathered for daily specials. The meals were simple yet nourishing: pot-au-feu, blanquette de veau, or a classic jambon-beurre sandwich, often paired with a carafe of house red. But as gentrification creeps in, with new apartment blocks and artisanal bakeries replacing old warehouses, these relics of the past seem out of place.

Patrons feel the loss acutely. Jean-Pierre Moreau, a retired truck driver in his 70s, frequents one of the remaining spots, Le Petit Bistrot, where he sips coffee and laments the changes. "These places were our second home," he says. "You could afford to eat out every day without breaking the bank. Now, everything's expensive and fancy. Where do we go?" For many, the disappearance exacerbates isolation, especially among the elderly and those on fixed incomes. Community groups have noted a rise in food insecurity, as affordable dining options vanish, forcing people to rely on supermarkets or charity kitchens.

Efforts to preserve these institutions are emerging, albeit slowly. Local associations, like the Angers Heritage Society, advocate for subsidies or tax breaks to support surviving restaurants. Some owners are adapting by incorporating modern twists – think vegetarian options or delivery services – to attract a younger crowd. In 2023, a city council initiative aimed to designate certain eateries as "cultural landmarks," providing grants for renovations. Yet, skeptics argue it's too little, too late. "The soul of these places is tied to the working-class ethos," notes Laurent. "You can't subsidize nostalgia."

Beyond economics, the vanishing restaurants highlight deeper inequalities. In a city where tourism booms – drawing visitors to the Apocalypse Tapestry or the Loire Valley vineyards – the focus on upscale dining caters to outsiders, sidelining locals. High-end bistros with fusion menus proliferate, but they price out the very people who built Angers' identity. This mirrors trends across France, from Lyon to Marseille, where similar eateries face extinction, prompting national debates on food equity.

As evening falls on Angers' quiet streets, the neon lights of a few holdouts flicker on, serving as beacons of resilience. But for how long? The slow disappearance of working-class restaurants isn't just about food; it's about losing a piece of communal life, a reminder of simpler times when a meal was a right, not a luxury. If trends continue, Angers risks becoming a city of gourmet facades, with its heartier roots buried under layers of progress. For now, those who remember urge others to visit while they can – a plate of boeuf bourguignon might be the last taste of an era fading into history.

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Read the Full Le Monde.fr Article at:
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