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L&B's Sicilian Square: Defining a Generation's Taste

  //food-wine.news-articles.net/content/2026/01/13 .. cilian-square-defining-a-generation-s-taste.html
  Published in Food and Wine on Tuesday, January 13th 2026 at 17:13 GMT by Daily Voice

The Sicilian Square: A Defining Taste

The pizzeria's signature dish, the square Sicilian-style pizza, is the key to its widespread acclaim. Unlike the traditional round pizzas often associated with New York, L&B's offering boasts a distinctively airy crust, a subtly sweet sauce that perfectly complements the generous blanket of cheese, and a unique, rectangular shape that has become synonymous with the Brooklyn experience. The New York Times food critic, Pete Wells, succinctly captured its impact, stating that the pizza "has defined a generation's taste in pizza." This isn't just pizza; it's a cultural phenomenon.

The square shape itself is a nod to regional Italian culinary traditions, a deliberate choice that speaks to the heritage of the founding families. While many modern pizzerias have embraced experimental toppings and elaborate techniques, L&B has steadfastly maintained its commitment to quality ingredients and time-honored methods. This dedication to authenticity is what resonates most deeply with its loyal customer base.

More Than Just Pizza: A Family's Legacy

Frank Catalano, whose family ties to L&B run deep - his father's sister married into the family - vividly describes his grandfather as "the heart and soul of this place." Catalano emphasizes that the pizzeria's success isn't solely about the delicious pizza; it's about fostering a sense of community and belonging. "He wanted people to come here and enjoy themselves and feel like they were part of a family," Catalano explained. This commitment to creating a welcoming and familial environment is evident in the pizzeria's consistent warmth and the genuine interactions between staff and customers.

In a world increasingly dominated by chain restaurants and fleeting food trends, L&B Spumoni Gardens stands as a beacon of tradition and enduring quality. The long lines that frequently snake down the block are a testament to its popularity, but as Pete Wells noted, "the wait is always worth it." It's a sentiment shared by generations of New Yorkers who consider L&B not just a pizzeria, but a beloved cultural institution. The recent recognition by The New York Times solidifies this legacy and ensures that L&B Spumoni Gardens will continue to serve up delicious pizza and heartwarming memories for years to come. The family's ability to maintain such high standards while upholding their core values--quality ingredients, traditional methods, and genuine hospitality--is a lesson for businesses everywhere, demonstrating that a little bit of love, and a commitment to family, can be the most powerful ingredients of all.