


We know wines from Argentina can be great, but will they age?


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The Endurance Test: Can Argentina’s Rising Wine Stars Stand the Test of Time?
Argentina's wine scene has exploded onto the global stage, lauded for its distinctive Malbec and increasingly impressive Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay, and other varietals. While consumers readily embrace these wines now, a crucial question lingers among producers and connoisseurs alike: will they age gracefully? A recent article in The Globe and Mail explores this very issue, examining whether Argentina’s current generation of high-extraction, concentrated wines possess the structure and balance necessary for long-term cellaring.
For years, Argentine winemaking followed a model heavily influenced by Bordeaux – emphasizing powerful tannins, deep color, and a robust extraction style. This approach yielded wines that were immediately appealing, often showcasing ripe fruit flavors and a full body. The success of this style fueled Argentina’s rise in popularity, particularly in markets like North America and Europe where consumers desired bold, accessible reds. However, the emphasis on immediate gratification has raised concerns about longevity.
The article highlights the work of Dr. Laura Catena, a pioneering figure in Argentine wine who has been advocating for a more nuanced approach to winemaking for decades. Catena’s family owns Bodega Catena Zapata in Mendoza and she is known for her meticulous research into high-altitude viticulture and its impact on grape quality. She argues that the early focus on extraction often masked underlying flaws, such as unripe tannins or lack of acidity. She has been instrumental in encouraging producers to adopt more restrained techniques, focusing on achieving phenolic ripeness – a measure of tannin maturity – rather than simply sugar levels.
The article details how many Argentine wineries are now experimenting with gentler handling during harvest and fermentation. This includes earlier picking dates to preserve acidity, less aggressive extraction methods (reducing the time skins spend in contact with juice), and a greater emphasis on native yeasts for fermentation. These changes aim to create wines with more finesse and complexity, capable of evolving positively over years rather than simply delivering immediate pleasure.
The piece references a tasting conducted by Wine Spectator in 2018, which included Argentine Malbecs dating back to the early 2000s. The results were mixed. While some wines showed remarkable resilience and developed tertiary flavors (earthy notes, leather, spice), others had faded or exhibited signs of premature aging – a consequence of insufficient structure. This tasting underscored the variability in quality within Argentina’s wine production and highlighted the importance of careful winemaking practices.
The article also touches on the impact of terroir—the environmental factors that influence grape growing—on aging potential. Mendoza, the heartland of Argentine viticulture, boasts diverse microclimates due to its high altitude and varied topography. Wines from higher-elevation vineyards, like those found in Gualtallary (explored further by Catena), tend to have thicker skins and more concentrated tannins, contributing to greater ageability. The article notes that the increased focus on identifying and understanding these terroir differences is crucial for producing wines designed for long-term cellaring.
Furthermore, the shift towards a more restrained style isn't solely driven by concerns about aging. Consumers are increasingly seeking wines with greater complexity and nuance, moving beyond the purely blockbuster styles of the past. This evolving palate provides an incentive for producers to explore different approaches and showcase the unique character of Argentine grapes.
The article concludes that while Argentina’s reputation was initially built on powerful, immediately appealing wines, a new generation of winemakers is actively working to ensure their creations can also stand the test of time. The success of this endeavor will depend on continued experimentation, rigorous quality control, and a willingness to embrace techniques that prioritize balance and structure over sheer extraction. The future of Argentine wine may well be defined by its ability to produce wines that are not only delicious today but remain compelling decades from now.
[ https://www.catena.com/ ] - This URL leads to the Bodega Catena Zapata website, providing more information about Laura Catena's work and the winery’s commitment to high-altitude viticulture and research. The site details their various vineyards and wines, showcasing their focus on terroir expression. It also includes a section dedicated to their scientific approach to winemaking, emphasizing phenolic maturity and other key factors influencing wine quality.
Read the Full The Globe and Mail Article at:
[ https://www.theglobeandmail.com/life/style/food-and-drink/article-we-know-wines-from-argentina-can-be-great-but-will-they-age/ ]