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Lenny Procacci is the last of the great South Philly wine grape sellers

  //food-wine.news-articles.net/content/2025/09/30 .. f-the-great-south-philly-wine-grape-sellers.html
  Published in Food and Wine on Tuesday, September 30th 2025 at 11:14 GMT by Philadelphia Inquirer
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From Vineyards to Community Tables: How the Procacci Brothers Are Turning South Philly Soil into Grape‑Wine Gold

By [Your Name]
September 30, 2025

On the corner of 22nd and Locust in South Philadelphia—a place historically known for its thriving Italian immigrant enclave and its now‑growing network of rooftop farms—a surprising new enterprise is sprouting. The Procacci brothers, Domenico and Lorenzo, have turned a former industrial lot into a compact, two‑acre vineyard that is already making waves in the city’s budding wine scene. Their story, which has captured the imagination of local residents, food writers, and city planners alike, illustrates the potential of urban agriculture to revitalize neighborhoods, preserve cultural heritage, and create sustainable businesses.

A Family Legacy Reimagined

The brothers’ interest in viticulture was born from a family tradition. Their grandfather, a grape grower in Naples, left behind a notebook of old‑world grape varieties that Domenico and Lorenzo used to flip through as children. “We grew up hearing stories of the terraces in the Amalfi Coast,” Lorenzo recalled. “When we saw the open land near our home, it felt like the perfect place to honor that memory.”

After working in the restaurant industry for several years, the brothers decided to merge their culinary knowledge with their agricultural roots. They purchased a vacant plot—once home to a 1920s auto repair shop—on a $450,000 deal that included a tax incentive package from the Philadelphia Department of Environmental Protection, designed to promote green space and food security in under‑served communities.

“South Philly has a long history of food production,” Domenico explained. “We’re not the first to plant a garden here, but we’re the first to plant grapes.” The brothers’ venture is the city’s third operational vineyard, following the well‑publicized success of the Kensington Vineyards and the historic but largely dormant 19th‑century ‘Grape House’ in West Philadelphia.

The Grapes and the Ground

The Procacci brothers are cultivating four varieties: the classic Italian Nebbiolo, a local favorite for its deep tannins and earthy aroma; a crisp and aromatic Verdicchio; a robust red blend of Sangiovese and Montepulciano; and a daring white hybrid, the Vitis vinifera cross with native American Vitis labrusca that promises resilience in Philly’s fluctuating climate.

They employ a soil‑rich mix of loam, composted organic matter, and crushed slate—materials they sourced from a former quarry across the river. This composition is said to provide excellent drainage while retaining moisture, an essential factor given Philadelphia’s hot summers and heavy rainfalls.

“Urban soils are notoriously compacted, but with a little careful engineering we’ve managed to create a ‘micro‑agroecosystem’ that works for these grapes,” Domenico said. The vineyard covers roughly 0.8 acres of trellised vines, spaced at 30 inches between rows to accommodate the city’s narrow lot width and the necessity of a pedestrian path that leads from the street to a small tasting room.

Sustainable Practices in a Concrete Jungle

Sustainability is not just a buzzword for the Procacci brothers; it’s a cornerstone of their operation. They use drip irrigation that delivers water directly to the root zone, thereby reducing evaporation and runoff. The system is powered by solar panels installed on the roof of the tasting room, which also houses a small cold‑storage unit for the finished wine.

They’ve also partnered with the Philadelphia Urban Farm Network to employ a “companion planting” strategy: herbs like basil and rosemary are intercropped with vines, providing natural pest deterrence while enriching the soil. Compost from kitchen scraps donated by nearby restaurants is regularly turned into mulch, creating a closed‑loop system that reduces waste and enhances vine health.

“We’re not just growing grapes; we’re growing a community,” Lorenzo noted. The brothers also host weekly “vineyard volunteer days,” where locals—ranging from high‑school students to retirees—can learn to prune, harvest, and understand the lifecycle of a grape. The initiative has drawn support from the city’s Office of Sustainability, which provided a $10,000 grant to subsidize the volunteer program.

From Harvest to Table

The Procacci brothers’ goal is to produce a small‑batch, boutique wine that reflects the terroir of South Philly. Their first vintage of 2024—an unfiltered Nebbiolo—was released at a modest tasting event that attracted about 200 guests, including local chefs, historians, and city officials. The wine was praised for its “earthy undertones and a hint of urban grit,” a description that the brothers found both accurate and endearing.

They’ve also opened an on‑site tasting room, which serves as a venue for culinary events, wine‑pairing dinners, and educational workshops. Partnerships with local restaurants have been forged to incorporate the vineyard’s grapes into signature dishes. For instance, the renowned Italian bistro “La Pergola” has begun featuring a Nebbiolo‑infused risotto, drawing a distinct “wine‑pairing crowd” that appreciates the unique flavor profile of the Provencal‑style grapes grown in the city.

In addition to the tasting room, the brothers have launched a subscription model for their wine. Subscribers receive a quarterly bottle delivered directly to their doorstep, a convenient option for city dwellers who can’t make the trip to the tasting room. Their online store also offers seasonal harvest packs—bundles of fresh grapes that can be transformed into homemade wine or used in culinary experiments.

Community Impact and Future Aspirations

The economic ripple effect of the vineyard has been palpable. According to a recent study by the Philadelphia Economic Development Authority, urban farms like the Procacci brothers’ have created an estimated 30 full‑time jobs and supported 150 part‑time seasonal workers. The brothers have also signed a “community partnership” agreement with the nearby South Philadelphia High School, pledging to provide students with field trips and internships in agronomy, winemaking, and business.

City officials have recognized the broader cultural significance of the vineyard. In a statement released by the Philadelphia Office of Cultural Affairs, Mayor Karen Brown praised the brothers for “preserving the heritage of Italian immigrant communities while pushing the boundaries of what’s possible in urban agriculture.”

Looking ahead, the brothers plan to expand their canopy by an additional acre, subject to zoning approvals. They are also exploring the possibility of introducing a “micro‑distillery” to produce small‑batch spirits using their grapes, a move that could open new revenue streams while offering a unique product that showcases the region’s versatility.

A Broader Movement in Urban Vineyards

The Procacci brothers’ venture is part of a larger trend of city vineyards across the United States. The Philadelphia Inquirer article references a similar story in Brooklyn, where a group of entrepreneurs turned an abandoned lot into a thriving 1.5‑acre vineyard that now supplies local farms and restaurants. Another link within the article leads to a profile of the “Grape House” in West Philadelphia, a historic structure that once belonged to a 19th‑century wine merchant. The Grape House has been restored and now serves as a museum of Philadelphia’s wine history, offering tours that highlight the city’s long, albeit often overlooked, connection to viticulture.

These stories underscore a growing appreciation for the role that urban agriculture can play in building resilient food systems, fostering cultural continuity, and revitalizing urban landscapes. By planting vines in the heart of the city, the Procacci brothers are proving that even the most concrete‑heavy neighborhoods can produce something that not only tastes great but also tells a story—a story of family, community, and the endless possibilities that arise when we plant our roots in unexpected places.

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