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Italy's Lambrusco Wines Deserve More Respect Than The Sweet Fizzy Stuff Of The Past

Lambrusco, a sparkling red wine from the Emilia-Romagna region of Italy, has long been associated with the sweet, fizzy versions that became popular in the United States during the 1970s and 1980s. These wines, often mass-produced and lacking in complexity, have contributed to a negative perception of Lambrusco among wine enthusiasts. However, Mariani argues that this view is outdated and fails to recognize the significant improvements and innovations that have taken place in the production of Lambrusco over the past few decades.
The article begins by tracing the origins of Lambrusco, which dates back to ancient Roman times. The name "Lambrusco" is derived from the Latin "labrusca," meaning wild grape, and the wine has been produced in the Emilia-Romagna region for centuries. Mariani emphasizes that Lambrusco is not a single wine but a family of wines made from various Lambrusco grape varieties, each with its own unique characteristics and flavor profiles.
One of the key points Mariani makes is the diversity of Lambrusco wines. He explains that there are several sub-regions within Emilia-Romagna, each producing its own distinct style of Lambrusco. For example, Lambrusco di Sorbara is known for its light color and delicate aroma, while Lambrusco Grasparossa di Castelvetro is fuller-bodied and more tannic. Mariani also highlights the different production methods used, ranging from the traditional Charmat method to the more labor-intensive metodo classico, which results in a more complex and refined sparkling wine.
The article goes on to discuss the efforts of modern winemakers to elevate the status of Lambrusco. Mariani profiles several producers who are committed to showcasing the potential of Lambrusco grapes. These winemakers are focusing on quality over quantity, using sustainable and organic farming practices, and experimenting with different aging techniques to bring out the best in their wines. Mariani cites examples such as Cleto Chiarli, a historic producer that has been making Lambrusco since 1860, and newer producers like Cantina della Volta, which is known for its metodo classico Lambruscos.
Mariani also addresses the changing tastes of consumers and the growing appreciation for sparkling red wines. He notes that while Lambrusco may have been dismissed as a novelty in the past, there is now a greater understanding and appreciation for its versatility. Lambrusco can be enjoyed on its own as an aperitif, paired with a wide range of foods, or even used in cocktails. The article includes recommendations for food pairings, such as traditional Emilia-Romagna dishes like prosciutto-wrapped melon and tortellini in brodo, as well as more unconventional pairings like spicy Asian cuisine and barbecue.
Another important aspect of the article is the discussion of the economic and cultural significance of Lambrusco in the Emilia-Romagna region. Mariani points out that Lambrusco is not just a wine but a vital part of the local identity and economy. The production of Lambrusco supports thousands of jobs and contributes to the region's tourism industry. He also touches on the efforts to promote Lambrusco internationally, with events like the annual Lambrusco Week and collaborations with chefs and sommeliers around the world.
The article concludes with a call to action for wine lovers to give Lambrusco a second chance. Mariani encourages readers to seek out high-quality Lambruscos and to challenge their preconceived notions about the wine. He argues that by doing so, they will discover a world of flavors and styles that are worthy of respect and appreciation.
In summary, John Mariani's article on Forbes provides a comprehensive overview of the history, diversity, and current state of Lambrusco wines. It challenges the outdated stereotypes associated with Lambrusco and highlights the efforts of modern producers to elevate the wine's status. The piece also underscores the cultural and economic importance of Lambrusco in Emilia-Romagna and encourages readers to explore and appreciate the full range of what Lambrusco has to offer. Through detailed descriptions, producer profiles, and food pairing suggestions, Mariani makes a compelling case for why Lambrusco deserves more respect and recognition in the world of wine.
Read the Full Forbes Article at:
https://www.forbes.com/sites/johnmariani/2025/06/27/italys-lambrusco-wines-deserve-more-respect-than-the-sweet-fizzy-stuff-of-the-past/
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