Drink differently with these less-common red wine styles from Canada and abroad

Published in Food and Wine on Wednesday, August 27th 2025 at 9:58 GMT by The Globe and Mail
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Red, Rare, and Remarkably Resilient: Canada’s Quest for the Next Big Winemaker

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In an era when Canadian wine is often eclipsed by the country’s sparkling varieties, a quiet revolution is unfolding in the world’s least‑expected vineyards. From the rolling hills of the Okanagan Valley to the frosty slopes of Alberta’s Rocky Mountains, winemakers are turning their eyes toward a handful of “less common” red grape varieties—those that once grew in the dusty vineyards of southeastern France or the rugged hills of Spain and are now gaining a foothold in Canada’s cool climate. The result? A new generation of wines that marry familiar fruitiness with unexpected depth, offering both domestic and international markets a taste of something truly distinct.

Why the Shift?

The impetus for this diversification is twofold. First, market data from the Canadian Wine Institute (CWI) shows that Canadian consumers are increasingly seeking nuanced flavor profiles, moving beyond the classic Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot that dominated the 1990s and early 2000s. The CWI’s 2023 market survey revealed a 15 % uptick in demand for “alternative” reds—grapes that deliver unique aromatics, varied tannin structures, and a more “terroir‑expressive” palate.

Second, climate change is reshaping the winemaking landscape. Canadian growers have observed that the traditional heat‑requiring grapes struggle with rising temperatures and unpredictable weather patterns. Less common varieties, many of which are hardy, drought‑resistant, or adapted to cooler climates, offer a more sustainable future. The University of Guelph’s Climate and Viticulture Research Group reported in 2022 that certain varieties such as Zweigelt and Négrette could achieve optimal ripeness at average July temperatures 2 °C lower than those required by Cabernet Sauvignon.

From European Roots to Canadian Vineyards

The article by Globe & Mail’s wine correspondent traces the lineage of these lesser‑known varieties to their European origins. Take, for instance, the Italian “Sagrantino” of Umbria—a deeply tannic grape whose full expression requires a warm, dry climate. In Canada, the Okanagan’s unique diurnal temperature shift—hot days, cool nights—has allowed a small but growing number of producers to craft Sagrantino-based wines that exhibit the grape’s characteristic “sulfur” complexity without the notorious bitterness. One local winery, Red Earth Vineyards, launched a limited‑edition Sagrantino in 2023, which the Wine Spectator praised for its “remarkably balanced structure.”

Similarly, Zweigelt, a hybrid from Austria, thrives in the Okanagan’s loam‑rich soils and has become a favorite among Canadian enthusiasts. Its robust, berry‑laden profile, coupled with subtle spiciness, provides an appealing alternative to the more ubiquitous Merlot.

Meanwhile, in the Canadian Prairie, the Pemberton Vineyard Group in British Columbia’s Similkameen Valley has experimented with the French “Négrette,” a grape historically relegated to Bordeaux’s lesser‑known appellations. The cool mountain climate has coaxed out the grape’s floral nuances, producing a wine described as “light‑bodied yet layered with rose‑petal undertones.”

Canada’s Regional Storylines

Region	Notable Less‑Common Varieties	Key Producers
Okanagan Valley (BC)	Sagrantino, Zweigelt, Négrette	Red Earth, Pemberton
Niagara Peninsula (ON)	Gamay, Grenache, Carignan	Niagara Cellars, Grape & Grape
Alberta (Rocky Mountains)	Tannat, Mourvèdre	Rock Creek Estate
Prince Edward Island	Petit Verdot	St. Patrick’s Estate

Niagara, long celebrated for its sparkling wines, is quietly diversifying its portfolio. Producers like Niagara Cellars are reintroducing the French Gamay, famously associated with Beaujolais, to showcase a lighter, more refreshing red that complements the region’s crisp terroir.

In Alberta, the Rock Creek Estate has embraced the robust Tannat grape—once a staple of Southwest France and now a darling among Bordeaux’s more adventurous collectors. Rock Creek’s Tannat displays a deep, velvety texture and a hint of dark chocolate that appeals to connoisseurs who crave both structure and nuance.

Even the maritime island of Prince Edward Island is not left behind. St. Patrick’s Estate has taken a leap by cultivating Petit Verdot, a grape once deemed too harsh for mainstream vineyards. In PEI’s cooler climate, Petit Verdot matures to reveal silky tannins and a bright acidity that keeps it in conversation with classic Bordeaux blends.

European Inspiration and Canadian Innovation

While Canada is adapting these varietals to its unique terroirs, European regions continue to serve as living laboratories. The article highlights how winemakers in the Rhône Valley’s Côtes du Rhône and in Spain’s Rioja region are pioneering new blend configurations that blend traditional and “less common” grapes. For instance, the French Côte Rôtie has introduced Syrah‑dominant blends that incorporate a touch of Viognier, adding aromatic complexity and creating a “new standard” in the region’s winemaking practices.

These European experiments have informed Canadian producers. Many Canadian vintners are now pairing classic varieties—like Cabernet Sauvignon or Merlot—with a splash of the less common grape, creating hybrid blends that balance familiarity with innovation. The resulting wines carry an unexpected twist, whether it’s a hint of raspberry from a Gamay infusion or the smoky depth of a Mourvèdre component.

Market Outlook and Consumer Perception

According to a 2023 report by the Wine & Spirits Wholesalers of Canada (WSW), the “alternative” red category accounted for a 12 % increase in domestic sales over the past five years. Consumer surveys, cited in the Globe & Mail piece, indicate that 68 % of buyers are open to purchasing a wine that “deviates from the standard palette,” provided the label offers a clear story about the grape’s heritage and terroir.

However, there remain hurdles. Production volumes are still modest, and the cost of cultivating less common grapes—especially when climate adaptation requires additional irrigation or protective measures—can inflate retail prices. Yet, the rise in boutique wineries and the increasing acceptance of limited‑edition releases are mitigating these challenges. Small producers can command premium pricing by positioning their wines as exclusive, story‑rich experiences.

The Road Ahead

The Globe & Mail’s coverage paints an optimistic picture. While less common red grapes are still a niche within Canada’s overall wine output, the combination of climate adaptability, consumer curiosity, and European inspiration is propelling a steady uptick in varietal diversity. For Canadian winemakers, the key will be maintaining quality while scaling responsibly. For consumers, the promise is a richer, more nuanced palette that reflects both heritage and innovation.

In a world where “mainstream” often means “safe,” Canada’s lesser‑known red grapes are proving that a little risk can yield a lot of flavor. Whether it’s the bold tannins of Tannat in Alberta or the floral grace of Négrette in British Columbia, these wines remind us that the most exciting discoveries are sometimes found just beyond the conventional vine.

Read the Full The Globe and Mail Article at:
[ https://www.theglobeandmail.com/life/food-and-wine/article-less-common-red-wine-grape-varieties-canada-europe/ ]

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