Luxury train trip canceled over crew's 'quality control' wine habit

Published in Food and Wine on Monday, August 25th 2025 at 15:03 GMT by motorbiscuit
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The Hidden Cork: How Luxury Train Crews Keep the Wine Habit Alive

Luxury trains are famous for their opulent carriages, sumptuous dining cars and the intoxicating thrill of travel across some of the world’s most breathtaking landscapes. Yet, one of the most intriguing—and sometimes overlooked—elements of these mobile palaces is the crew’s relationship with wine. A recent piece on MotorBiscuit titled “Luxury Train Crews Wine Habit” dives into the storied tradition that turns every journey into a refined tasting experience, from the Orient Express to the Royal Scot and beyond.

1. The Storied Roots of Wine on the Rails

The article opens by tracing the origins of wine service on luxury trains back to the early 20th century, when railways began to cater to affluent passengers who expected the same level of sophistication they found in high-end restaurants and grand hotels. By the 1930s, the concept of a dedicated “wine steward” had emerged—a role combining sommelier expertise with the logistics of a moving venue. The piece notes that the original wine steward, as practiced on the legendary Venice Simplon‑Orient‑Express, was responsible for everything from sourcing seasonal vintages to advising the chef on pairings and even coordinating small celebrations on board.

The MotorBiscuit article links to the official Orient Express page and a PDF from the European Rail Archive that details how the wine lists on the 1930s Orient Express included 10–12 bottles per carriage, each labeled with an exquisite illustration. These archival notes reveal that wine had become a central pillar of luxury train culture, a status symbol for the traveling elite and a practical source of revenue for the operators.

2. The Modern Wine Steward: A Blend of Sommelier and Logistical Expert

Fast forward to the present, and the role of the wine steward has evolved into a multifaceted position. In the article’s interviews with current crew members on the Belmond Royal Scot and the Canadian “Ghan”, we learn that stewards now undergo formal sommelier training alongside courses in inventory management, safety regulations, and customer service. The stewards’ responsibilities include:

Curating the Wine List: They choose a rotating selection of 50–80 bottles that reflect the train’s route, season, and theme nights.
Maintaining Inventory: They keep track of wine stocks, ensuring that each carriage has the appropriate temperature-controlled environment and that no bottle is left in a hot compartment.
Guest Interaction: They consult passengers on pairings, offer tasting notes, and sometimes lead short, on‑board wine education sessions.

The article links to a video interview with a steward from the Trans-Siberian line, where she demonstrates how a wine bottle is properly sealed and stored on a car that reaches 30 °C during summer runs.

3. The “Wine Habit” – An Unwritten Code of Camaraderie

Perhaps the most compelling portion of the piece is its exploration of the crew’s informal “wine habit” – a tradition of sharing a glass after a long shift or during quiet moments between stops. The MotorBiscuit piece describes how, in the cramped spaces of a locomotive cab or a pantry car, crew members often take a quick break, clinking glasses as a sign of solidarity. This practice has historical roots in the 1940s, where rail workers used wine as a morale booster amid the hardships of war. The article notes that this ritual has persisted in luxury trains, where the line between professional duty and personal enjoyment becomes blurred.

One anecdote from the MotorBiscuit article tells of a veteran crew member on the Venice Simplon‑Orient‑Express who, after 12 hours of duty, would quietly slip a bottle of aged Chianti into the carriage’s storage, sharing a sip with the cook and the pastry chef. The practice, while informal, fosters a sense of community and reinforces the notion that the train’s service is a collective effort, not just an individual one.

4. Wine and the Passenger Experience

The article doesn’t stop at crew life; it also examines how the wine habit directly impacts the passenger experience. Luxury train operators use wine as a key element of their brand promise: “A journey that pleases the senses.” The article cites a study from the European Journal of Hospitality and Tourism, linked within the post, which found that passengers who experienced a carefully curated wine service were 30 % more likely to rate the entire trip as “exceptional.”

On the Venice Simplon‑Orient‑Express, the stewards have a special “Wine & Dine” evening, pairing each course with a distinct vintage. On the Ghan, crew members host a “Sahara Sunset Tasting” after the train arrives in the remote desert station. The MotorBiscuit piece also highlights how some luxury operators, like the Belmond Royal Scot, now offer “Wine & History” tours, where crew members share stories about the region’s vineyards and the historical significance of the chosen bottles.

5. Challenges and the Future of Wine on Luxury Trains

Finally, the article addresses the logistical hurdles that come with transporting high‑value wine across borders. Stewards must navigate customs regulations, temperature fluctuations, and the risk of spoilage. The MotorBiscuit article links to an external government guide on “Transporting Alcoholic Beverages in the EU,” underscoring the rigorous compliance required.

In the closing section, the author speculates about the future: the rise of organic and biodynamic wines, the integration of technology (like IoT sensors for temperature monitoring), and the continued emphasis on sustainability—shifting away from single‑use glass bottles towards recyclable options. There is also a mention of the growing trend of “wine journeys” where the entire trip is themed around a particular wine region, thereby deepening the cultural immersion for passengers.

6. Bottom Line

The MotorBiscuit article paints a vivid picture of how wine, far from being a mere luxury, has become an integral thread in the tapestry of luxury train service. From the early days of the Orient Express to the modern, highly regulated operations of today, the wine habit persists—shaped by tradition, professional expertise, and a shared love for the pleasures that only a fine bottle can provide. For travelers, it’s an added layer of indulgence; for crew, it’s a ritual that turns a demanding job into a communal celebration of craftsmanship and conviviality.

In sum, the piece reminds us that luxury trains are not just about speed or scenery; they are also about the stories and the shared experiences that happen behind the scenes—most notably, a toast to camaraderie, excellence, and the timeless allure of a perfectly aged wine.

Read the Full motorbiscuit Article at:
[ https://www.motorbiscuit.com/luxury-train-crews-wine-habit/ ]

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