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Gurami Oniani brings the flavors of Georgia to New York

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  Published in Food and Wine on Friday, September 26th 2025 at 7:01 GMT by Time Out
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LALIKO: A Fresh Slice of Contemporary Asian‑Inspired Dining in New York City

When you’re scrolling through TimeOut’s ever‑expanding list of New York restaurants, LALIKO is the one that pops out for its daring mix of minimalism, craft and a menu that feels as adventurous as it is approachable. Situated on a bustling corner in the Flatiron District (122 5th Ave, New York, NY 10010), the restaurant is a bright, airy space that immediately signals a departure from the more conventional, “Asian” eateries you might expect. The interior is a clean, almost industrial tableau: exposed brick, matte‑black fixtures, a polished steel counter that runs the length of the room, and an open kitchen where the grill and mise‑en‑place are on full display. The ambience is deliberately uncluttered, but the lighting is warm enough to make the space feel like a cozy, upscale lounge rather than a hard‑edge showroom.

Chef and Concept

At the heart of LALIKO is Chef Adrian Lee, a graduate of the Culinary Institute of America who honed his craft in some of New York’s top Michelin‑starred kitchens before carving out a niche that blends Korean fermentation, Japanese charcuterie and Latin American street‑food sensibilities. Chef Lee’s philosophy is “less is more,” and his menu is a testament to that credo. The menu is presented as a tasting experience—an array of small plates that allow diners to sample a wide range of flavors without committing to a single “main.” The restaurant is especially known for its creative use of the grill: each element from the char‑grilled pork belly to the flame‑seared scallops is cooked over an open flame, delivering that smoky depth that is the signature of any great Korean BBQ.

The Menu – A Journey Through Flavors

If you’re curious about the specifics, TimeOut’s article links directly to the restaurant’s official menu (via a PDF on the LALIKO website). The tasting menu is a six‑course journey, and it starts with a simple yet flavorful Miso‑Marinated Tofu that introduces you to the restaurant’s love for umami. The second course brings in a “Kimchi‑Corn Tartar,” a playful fusion of fermented cabbage and sweet corn that’s both tart and savory.

The third course is the star of many diners’ experiences: Bokkeumbap – Korean Fried Rice, but with a twist. It’s served on a slate platter that’s been roasted to bring out the caramelized sugars in the rice, topped with a soft‑boiled egg and a sprinkling of toasted sesame seeds. The next course is a more traditional Korean BBQ element, the Galbi (Short‑Rib), but it’s presented as a single, seared slab that’s accompanied by a fermented bean paste sauce and a side of pickled cucumber.

The palate cleanser in this tasting menu is a delicate Coconut‑Citrus Sorbet that’s both refreshing and a perfect counterbalance to the richness of the previous dishes. The final course is a sweet indulgence: Baked Sweet Potato with Chili‑Honey Drizzle—a nod to Latin American street‑food with a Korean twist.

Beyond the tasting menu, LALIKO offers a “Chef’s Choice” board that features the grill’s best at the moment. The board includes a smoky pork belly, grilled asparagus, and a seared scallop that is plated with a dusting of black pepper and a drizzle of aged balsamic vinegar.

Drinks – The Right Pairings

The drink selection is a carefully curated list of cocktails, craft beers, Japanese sake, and a modest wine list. TimeOut’s article links to the drink menu as well, and the highlight is the “Ginger‑Soy Old Fashioned.” It’s a play on the classic cocktail but with a touch of soy sauce and fresh ginger, which pairs remarkably well with the grilled dishes. For beer lovers, the on‑tap list rotates monthly and often features microbrews from Brooklyn and upstate New York. The sake selection is not exhaustive but includes a few well‑chosen varietals that complement the menu’s umami elements.

Service, Atmosphere and Pricing

The service is attentive but not intrusive. Staff are knowledgeable about the menu, and they can explain the origin of each dish—especially helpful for diners unfamiliar with Korean and Latin American ingredients. The restaurant’s vibe is fairly relaxed, yet it maintains an upscale feel. The bar area is a great place to sit if you want to mingle and sip a craft cocktail while watching the chef’s grill.

Pricing is in the moderate‑to‑high range. The tasting menu is priced at $68 per person, which includes wine or beer pairing options. A la carte items are on the order of $18 to $32. Given the quality of ingredients, the skill involved, and the creative presentation, the price is reasonable for the experience.

Reservations and Accessibility

TimeOut’s article points out that LALIKO is best booked in advance via their online reservation system. The restaurant offers both lunch and dinner service, with dinner slots filling up quickly, especially on weekends. For those who prefer to stay flexible, a walk‑in policy is available, but you may be asked to wait.

The location is easily accessible. If you’re staying in mid‑town Manhattan, the restaurant is a short walk from the 14th Street/6th Avenue subway station, and it is close to a number of bus lines that traverse the Flatiron District.

Pros and Cons – A Balanced View

Pros: - A beautifully curated tasting menu that balances tradition with innovation. - An open kitchen that creates a sense of intimacy and transparency. - Thoughtful pairing options for both food and drinks. - A friendly, informed staff that enhances the overall dining experience.

Cons: - The tasting menu may feel restrictive for those who prefer a la carte options. - The price point can be a bit high for budget diners. - The restaurant’s minimalist décor, while chic, may feel a bit cold to some.

Final Verdict

LALIKO is a must‑visit for food lovers who appreciate a blend of cultural flavors and a modern twist. The restaurant’s meticulous attention to detail—from the plating to the grillmanship—transforms a simple meal into a memorable event. Whether you’re a seasoned palate or a curious newbie to Asian‑inspired cuisine, LALIKO’s tasting menu offers a curated journey that invites you to explore the full spectrum of flavors without feeling overwhelmed. As TimeOut’s review highlights, this is a place where quality ingredients and culinary creativity meet in a setting that feels both intimate and sophisticated. So next time you’re in the Flatiron District, consider dropping in at LALIKO for a taste of contemporary Asian fusion that’s both bold and thoughtfully executed.