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This Indigenous chef is bringing ancestral food traditions to mid-Michigan celebration

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  Published in Food and Wine on Friday, September 26th 2025 at 14:59 GMT by MLive
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Indigenous Chef Revives Ancestral Flavors at Mid‑Michigan Celebration

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Saginaw Bay‑City, Michigan – September 12, 2025

In a bright, bustling pavilion on the banks of Lake Huron, a new culinary star is taking center stage. Chef Nina Kiswah, a member of the Saginaw Chippewa Tribal Nation and the first Native American to headline the Mid‑Michigan Food & Cultural Festival, is bringing ancestral food traditions to a city that has long celebrated the bounty of the Great Lakes. Her presence underscores a growing movement across the Midwest to honor Indigenous foodways that have survived centuries of displacement and change.

A Trailblazing Career

Kiswah, 38, grew up in a family of hunters and gatherers on the Saginaw reservation, where her grandmother taught her how to dry and pound wild rice, roast elk, and preserve fish in cedar smoke. “Food was always storytelling,” she told reporters after her opening presentation. “Every recipe is a lesson in resilience.”

After high school, Kiswah earned a culinary arts degree from the Culinary Institute of America in Hyde Park, New York. She then spent four years working in fine‑dining kitchens in Chicago and New Orleans, before returning to Michigan to co‑found the Native Food Collective, a nonprofit that trains young Indigenous chefs in both contemporary culinary techniques and traditional food preparation.

“Cooking is a form of sovereignty,” says Kiswah, who now travels regularly to tribal schools and community centers to share her knowledge. “When we serve ancestral dishes, we assert our history, our rights, and our future.”

The Celebration’s Mission

The Mid‑Michigan Food & Cultural Festival, held every September since 2010, is a week‑long event that draws chefs, food enthusiasts, and cultural organizations from all 83 Michigan counties. This year’s theme, “Harvesting Heritage,” aims to spotlight sustainable agriculture and traditional knowledge.

“The festival has always been about bringing people together around food,” says event director Maria López, who has overseen the festival for the past four years. “Kiswah’s participation takes it to a new level. She is not only a chef; she is a cultural ambassador.”

In addition to her signature “Cedar‑Smoked Bison Stew” and “Wild‑Rice Pottage with Fish Roe,” Kiswah is showcasing a new “Ancestral Sweet Potato Tamales” that combine pre‑Columbian maize techniques with a modern presentation. Her tasting stations also feature a “Brewed Birch Syrup” that pairs the sweet, earthy flavor with a crisp, sparkling water.

“Food is the most accessible way to experience a culture,” López explains. “We want attendees to taste the history of Michigan’s Indigenous peoples, and Kiswah’s dishes do that beautifully.”

Community and Economic Impact

The festival’s organizers estimate that this year’s event will draw over 40,000 visitors, generating an estimated $2.5 million in local spending. The inclusion of Indigenous chefs, particularly Kiswah, is expected to boost revenue for tribal businesses and provide a platform for broader advocacy.

“Seeing an Indigenous chef lead a session on the festival grounds sends a powerful message to young people in our community,” says Daniel Eaton, the tribal council’s economic development director. “It shows that our knowledge is valuable and that we can thrive in contemporary contexts.”

The Saginaw Chippewa Tribal Nation, in partnership with the Michigan Department of Natural Resources, has also pledged to support the festival’s sustainability goals. This includes a zero‑waste policy for food service and a commitment to sourcing ingredients from local, Indigenous farmers whenever possible.

A Call for Preservation

Kiswah’s story is not just one of culinary excellence; it is a reminder of the fragility and resilience of Indigenous foodways. After the 19th‑century treaties that opened Michigan to settlers, many Indigenous communities lost access to traditional lands, leading to a decline in native agriculture and hunting practices.

“I’m here to help reverse that trend,” she says. “Food is a tangible link to our ancestors. If we can teach people how to grow, fish, and cook these foods, we preserve our culture.”

The festival’s educational components mirror this mission. In addition to her tasting station, Kiswah will lead a workshop on “Wild‑Rice Harvesting Techniques,” illustrating the environmental stewardship inherent in traditional practices. The session will cover the entire lifecycle of wild rice—from seed dispersal to manual harvesting—and its ecological importance to the Huron‑Erie Basin.

Looking Ahead

As the festival winds down, attendees are already talking about next year’s line‑up. Some have expressed interest in a “Tribal Food Exchange” where Indigenous chefs can share recipes and techniques, while others hope for a formal partnership between the festival and the Native Food Collective.

“Next year we want to see more Indigenous voices,” says López. “Kiswah’s debut was a turning point, and we’re excited to build on it.”

For now, the final dishes served at the festival’s closing banquet included a bowl of “Heirloom Squash Soup” topped with a drizzle of elderberry syrup, a tribute to the traditional medicine practices of the Anishinaabe people. Guests left the event with a sense of shared heritage and a newfound appreciation for the land that nourishes them.

The Mid‑Michigan Food & Cultural Festival’s 2025 edition not only celebrated the region’s culinary diversity but also highlighted the enduring legacy of Indigenous food traditions. Through Chef Nina Kiswah’s vibrant flavors and her unwavering commitment to cultural preservation, the festival reaffirmed that food, in its most authentic form, can bridge the past and the future, nourishing both body and soul.