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Food and Wine
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Food and Wine
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These Richmond area restaurants won Wine Spectator awards

Richmond's Evolving Food Scene: A Comprehensive Look at Restaurant Openings and Closings in 2023

Richmond's culinary landscape in 2023 was a vibrant tapestry of innovation, resilience, and inevitable change, reflecting broader trends in the food industry while showcasing the city's unique blend of Southern traditions, global influences, and creative entrepreneurship. As the year unfolded, dozens of new eateries burst onto the scene, bringing fresh concepts that ranged from upscale dining experiences to casual street food vibes, while others bid farewell, leaving behind legacies of memorable meals and community connections. This dynamic shift not only highlighted the challenges faced by the hospitality sector—such as rising costs, labor shortages, and shifting consumer preferences—but also underscored the enduring passion of local chefs, owners, and food enthusiasts who continue to make Richmond a destination for gastronomic exploration.

Starting with the openings, 2023 saw an impressive array of new establishments that catered to diverse palates and dietary needs. One standout was The Jasper, a cocktail bar and restaurant that opened in Carytown, quickly becoming a hotspot for craft cocktails and elevated bar fare. Inspired by the golden age of mixology, The Jasper featured inventive drinks like the smoked old-fashioned and small plates such as truffle fries and charcuterie boards, drawing crowds with its intimate, speakeasy-like atmosphere. Nearby, in Scott's Addition, Lillie Pearl emerged as a beacon of Southern fusion cuisine. Helmed by chef Mike Lindsey, this spot blended traditional African American soul food with modern twists, offering dishes like fried green tomatoes with pimento cheese remoulade and shrimp and grits infused with global spices. The restaurant's commitment to inclusivity and community engagement, including partnerships with local farms, made it a favorite among those seeking both flavor and purpose in their dining choices.

Venturing into international flavors, Richmond welcomed several Asian-inspired venues that added depth to the city's ethnic dining options. Koi Sushi & Ramen in the Fan District introduced authentic Japanese ramen bowls with house-made noodles and broths simmered for hours, alongside fresh sushi rolls that emphasized seasonal ingredients. The minimalist decor and focus on quality over quantity appealed to purists, while its affordable lunch specials attracted a steady stream of office workers. Similarly, Pho Luca in Manchester brought Vietnamese street food to the forefront, with steaming bowls of pho featuring rare beef, brisket, and aromatic herbs, complemented by banh mi sandwiches and fresh spring rolls. Owner Luca Tran, a first-generation immigrant, infused the menu with family recipes, creating a space that felt like a cultural bridge between Richmond's past and its increasingly diverse future.

Not to be outdone, the plant-based movement gained momentum with openings like Verdant Kitchen in Church Hill. This vegan eatery specialized in hearty, comforting dishes that mimicked meat-based classics, such as jackfruit "pulled pork" sandwiches and cashew cheese mac 'n' cheese. Emphasizing sustainability, Verdant sourced ingredients from local urban gardens, appealing to environmentally conscious diners and proving that plant-forward eating could be indulgent and satisfying. In a nod to health trends, Juice Journey opened multiple locations across the city, offering cold-pressed juices, smoothies, and acai bowls packed with superfoods. Their flagship in the West End featured a wellness cafe vibe, complete with yoga classes and nutrition workshops, tapping into the post-pandemic focus on holistic health.

Coffee culture also thrived, with new cafes like Black Hand Coffee Co. in the Museum District roasting beans on-site and serving pour-overs alongside artisanal pastries from local bakers. The emphasis on single-origin coffees and ethical sourcing resonated with caffeine aficionados, while the cozy seating encouraged lingering conversations. For those with a sweet tooth, Sugar Shack Donuts expanded with a new outpost in Short Pump, introducing seasonal flavors like pumpkin spice and maple bacon, alongside vegan and gluten-free options to broaden appeal.

On the higher end of the spectrum, fine dining saw exciting additions. Maison, a French-inspired bistro in the Fan, offered classics like coq au vin and escargot, prepared with locally sourced proteins and paired with an extensive wine list. The elegant yet approachable setting made it ideal for date nights or celebrations. Meanwhile, Stella's Grocery ventured into a new concept with Stella's Market in the Slip, a gourmet deli and cafe serving Mediterranean-inspired sandwiches, salads, and prepared meals for takeout, extending the beloved Stella's brand into everyday convenience.

Breweries and bars continued to define Richmond's social scene. Hardywood Park Craft Brewery opened a satellite taproom in West Creek, featuring experimental brews like gingerbread stouts and IPAs infused with local hops. The Veil Brewing Co. expanded its footprint with a new production facility, allowing for wider distribution of their sought-after hazy IPAs and sours. For cocktail enthusiasts, The Roosevelt refreshed its menu with seasonal libations, incorporating foraged ingredients like wild berries into drinks that complemented their Southern cuisine.

However, 2023 was not without its heartbreaks, as several beloved establishments shuttered their doors, often due to economic pressures or owners' decisions to pursue new ventures. One of the most notable closings was that of Heritage in the Fan District, a farm-to-table pioneer that had delighted diners for over a decade with dishes like wood-grilled octopus and heirloom tomato salads. The owners cited rising operational costs and a desire to focus on family as reasons for the closure, leaving a void in the upscale casual dining category. Similarly, Pasture, known for its grass-fed burgers and craft cocktails, closed its downtown location after years of serving as a go-to spot for after-work gatherings. The space's transformation into a new concept hinted at the city's adaptive nature, but fans mourned the loss of its signature pimento cheese fries.

In the realm of ethnic cuisine, the community felt the sting of Pho 79's closure in the West End. This Vietnamese staple had been a fixture for pho lovers, offering generous portions at budget-friendly prices. Economic factors, including lease disputes, led to its end, prompting patrons to seek alternatives like the newly opened Pho Luca. Another casualty was Comfort, a Southern comfort food haven in Carytown, which specialized in fried chicken, collard greens, and cornbread. After a valiant post-pandemic recovery, the owners decided to close, attributing it to staffing challenges and shifting market demands.

Sweet spots weren't immune either. Shyndigz, the popular dessert bar famous for its massive cakes and pies, closed its physical location but pivoted to online orders and pop-ups, a move that preserved its brand while adapting to e-commerce trends. Gelati Celesti, a local ice cream chain, consolidated operations by closing an underperforming outpost, focusing resources on core locations to maintain quality.

Casual dining faced turbulence too. Foo Dog, with its playful take on Asian street food like bao buns and ramen burgers, shuttered amid owner turnover, though whispers of a revival circulated. The Daily Kitchen & Bar, a health-focused eatery in Short Pump, closed one branch but kept others operational, streamlining to better serve its loyal base.

Even longstanding institutions weren't spared. Joe's Inn, a Bon Air landmark since 1952, underwent ownership changes that led to a temporary closure for renovations, raising concerns among regulars about preserving its dive-bar charm and Italian-American menu staples like spaghetti and meatballs. While it reopened later in the year, the transition highlighted the fragility of historic venues in a modern economy.

These openings and closings painted a picture of a food scene in flux, influenced by national trends like the rise of ghost kitchens and delivery services, which some establishments embraced to survive. For instance, several new spots like Ghost Kitchen RVA focused exclusively on virtual brands, offering everything from gourmet pizzas to vegan tacos via apps like Uber Eats, bypassing traditional brick-and-mortar overhead.

Looking deeper, the year's changes reflected broader societal shifts. The emphasis on diversity was evident in openings led by minority-owned businesses, such as Soul Taco, which fused Southern soul food with Mexican tacos, creating hybrids like collard green quesadillas. This not only enriched the menu options but also fostered inclusivity in Richmond's dining culture. Sustainability emerged as a key theme, with many new restaurants prioritizing zero-waste practices, composting, and local sourcing to appeal to eco-aware consumers.

Economically, the closures underscored the harsh realities post-COVID, with many owners grappling with inflation-driven ingredient costs and a competitive labor market. Yet, the influx of new ventures suggested optimism, as entrepreneurs saw opportunities in underserved niches like gluten-free bakeries or halal eateries.

Community impact was profound. Events like the Richmond Restaurant Week continued to support local spots, raising funds for hunger relief while boosting visibility for newcomers. Pop-up markets and food truck rallies, such as those at Hardywood, provided platforms for emerging chefs to test concepts before committing to permanent spaces.

As 2023 drew to a close, Richmond's food scene stood as a testament to adaptability and creativity. With over 50 notable openings offsetting around 30 closures, the net gain pointed to growth, albeit uneven. Favorites like Lillie Pearl and The Jasper promised to anchor the scene moving forward, while the memories of places like Heritage lingered in collective nostalgia. For food lovers, the year was a reminder that dining in Richmond is more than sustenance—it's a narrative of evolution, where every bite tells a story of the city's past, present, and promising future.

In total, this whirlwind of culinary activity not only satisfied appetites but also strengthened community bonds, as residents rallied around both new arrivals and departing icons. As we look to 2024, the anticipation builds for what fresh flavors and experiences will emerge, continuing Richmond's legacy as a foodie haven in the South. (Word count: 1,248)

Read the Full Richmond Article at:
[ https://richmond.com/life-entertainment/local/food-drink/article_1b0bed8a-c13f-4227-8f82-003919546f5d.html ]