The Flavor and Texture Powerhouse of Butter in Baking

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  Published in Food and Wine on Tue, Dec 12th, 2025 by Food & Wine
      Locale: UNITED STATES

The Ultimate Guide to Butter for Baking – A Summary of Jacques Pépins’ Food & Wine Review

When it comes to baking, few ingredients are as foundational or as deceptively complex as butter. In a recent feature on Food & Wine, French culinary legend Jacques Pépins dissects the nuances of butter—its types, flavors, and the best brands to use for everything from flaky pastries to moist cakes. Below is a comprehensive roundup of the article’s key points, along with extra context pulled from linked sources that help deepen our understanding of why butter is truly the secret ingredient in so many beloved baked goods.

1. The Flavor and Texture Powerhouse

Pépins opens by noting that butter is not just a fat; it’s the source of “the richest, most complex flavor you can get in a baked item.” He explains that butter’s unique blend of milk solids and water, when tempered correctly, creates the ideal microstructure in doughs, lending them lift, tenderness, and a mouth‑watering sheen. Because of this, the quality and type of butter can make the difference between a mediocre cookie and a professionally crafted pastry.

2. Unsalted vs. Salted: Which to Pick?

One of the most common questions new bakers ask is whether to use salted or unsalted butter. Pépins stresses that unsalted butter is the gold standard for most recipes because it gives bakers full control over the salt content. Salted butter, on the other hand, can be useful for quick, “one‑pan” cookies or certain savory breads where the extra salt adds a pleasing crunch. The article also points out that if a recipe calls for “salted butter,” it usually assumes the amount of salt will be roughly 2 % of the total weight of the butter.

3. Fat Content: The 80 % Benchmark

Another major factor is the butter’s fat percentage. Pépins recommends choosing butter that is at least 80 % fat. Lower‑fat butters, such as “cream fat” varieties that contain 60 %–70 % fat, are less suitable for flaky pastries because the higher water content can result in a dense, chewy texture. For cakes and muffins, however, a slightly lower fat butter can yield a lighter crumb.

4. Cultured vs. Regular: Taste Implications

The article delves into the difference between cultured (fermented) and regular butter. Cultured butter undergoes a natural fermentation process that gives it a subtle tang and a richer flavor profile—qualities prized in traditional French pastries like croissants and puff pastry. Pépins recommends using cultured butter in any recipe where a deeper, almost “yogurt‑like” flavor will shine. Regular butter, meanwhile, is more neutral and versatile for general baking.

5. The “Best‑in‑Class” Brands: Pépins’ Picks

Pépins takes a hands‑on approach by testing a dozen popular butter brands in a blind‑taste and performance comparison. The top performers he highlights include:

Pépins notes that while brand can make a noticeable difference, the most important factor is consistency in texture and fat content—something that the above brands all maintain.

6. Testing & Results: The “Butter Test” Protocol

The article explains how Pépins ran a side‑by‑side test: he baked identical batches of shortcrust pastry, croissant dough, and chocolate chip cookies using each butter. The evaluation criteria were flakiness, rise, crumb softness, and overall flavor. Across the board, Lurpak and Kerrygold topped the charts for flakiness and butter‑rich taste, while President was a close runner‑up for cookies due to its subtle vanilla undertone.

7. Practical Tips for Bakers

Pépins rounds off the article with a handy set of “butter‑for‑baking” dos and don’ts:

1. Room Temperature is Key – Butter should be softened enough to leave a faint indentation when pressed but not melted. Aim for 70–75 °F (21–24 °C).
2. Cut into Cubes – When incorporating into dough, cut butter into 1/2‑inch cubes for even distribution.
3. Keep It Fresh – Store butter in its original foil packaging to protect it from oxygen, or wrap in a freezer bag for long‑term storage.
4. Watch the Salt – If you’re substituting salted for unsalted, reduce the recipe’s added salt by about 1/4 teaspoon per cup of butter.
5. Experiment with Cultures – If you’re keen to add depth, try swapping a regular butter for a cultured version in a single batch to taste the difference.

8. Linking Back to the Bigger Picture

The article’s “See Also” section nudges readers toward related Food & Wine pieces, such as a detailed guide on “How to Make the Perfect Shortcrust Pastry” and an exploration of “The Science of Baking with Butter.” These links reinforce Pépins’ central thesis: butter is a science‑based art form, and understanding its properties can unlock a new level of culinary mastery.

9. Bottom Line

Jacques Pépins’ feature on Food & Wine distills the science, tradition, and flavor nuances that make butter a cornerstone of baking. From choosing the right fat content and salt level to selecting a premium brand, the article provides a roadmap for bakers of all levels to elevate their creations. Whether you’re whipping up a batch of croissants, a sheet of shortcrust, or a simple chocolate chip cookie, remember that the right butter not only enriches taste but also transforms texture—making the difference between an average bake and a bakery‑quality masterpiece.