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From Fish-Stock to Creamy Classic: The Enduring Legacy of a Chowder Ancestor
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Published in Food and Wine on Sunday, November 23rd 2025 at 9:55 GMT by Seattle Times- 🞛 This publication is a summary or evaluation of another publication
- 🞛 This publication contains editorial commentary or bias from the source
From Fish‑Stock to Creamy Classic: The Enduring Legacy of a Chowder Ancestor
In a recent piece for the Seattle Times, food writer Sara Johnson takes readers on a culinary time‑travel that starts in the 19th‑century New England docks and lands squarely in the heart of the Pacific Northwest. Her article, “This Ancestor of Chowder Is Still Popular – and for Good Reason,” explores the humble dish that paved the way for the creamy, thick soup we now call chowder and shows how that original recipe has survived, evolved, and found a devoted following in today’s Seattle food scene.
The Origin Story: A Fishermen’s Soup
Johnson opens with a vivid portrait of a 1800s coastal village where “the sea was both a livelihood and a pantry.” The dish she calls the “clam‑stock”—a clear broth made by simmering fresh clams, onions, and herbs in seawater—was a staple among dockworkers. It was inexpensive, nourishing, and, most importantly, it used what was readily available: clams that were caught daily.
In the article’s early paragraphs Johnson traces the transformation of this simple stock into a thicker, heartier soup. As clams were often stewed for hours, the natural gelatin in the shells turned the broth into a mildly thickened consommé. Adding potatoes, carrots, and later, milk, the soup became richer and more filling, giving rise to the first “chowder” in the culinary lexicon. Johnson notes that the word “chowder” is believed to derive from the French chaud (hot), reflecting the dish’s role as a warming meal.
How the Ancestor Became a Classic
Johnson explains how the dish migrated from New England to the West Coast in the late 1800s with the expanding rail network and the booming fishing industry in Puget Sound. The first Seattle waterfront restaurants began to serve a “New England‑style” chowder, but they had to adapt to local ingredients. Salmon, herring, and Pacific oysters replaced the Atlantic clams that had originally given the soup its character. The result was a new variation—often called “Seattle chowder”—which was still thickened with potatoes but had a distinct, briny flavor profile.
The article references an American Culinary Institute interview with chef Emily Rios, who points out that Seattle’s version of chowder is still “basically the same as what the fishermen used to make,” just with a richer, cream‑based base that reflects the city’s love for dairy and its proximity to dairy farms. Rios adds that the dish’s “creamy texture” makes it an ideal comfort food for the rainy Pacific Northwest climate.
The Modern Revival
Johnson follows the narrative into the present day, noting that the dish has experienced a resurgence thanks to Seattle’s foodie culture and the popularity of sustainable seafood. Several local restaurants—such as The Crab Pot, Seafood House at Pier 66, and the newer pop‑up Bodega Chowder—have reinvented the classic with creative twists. For instance, Bodega Chowder adds a splash of white wine and fresh dill, while Seafood House incorporates a dash of chipotle for a smoky kick.
The article also mentions an ongoing “Seafood for a Cause” initiative at the Seattle Fish Market, where a portion of proceeds from a special chowder menu supports local fishermen’s cooperatives. According to Johnson, “the dish’s humble origins remind us of the importance of community and sustainability.” The Seattle Times piece includes a link to a Washington State Department of Fish and Wildlife page that details how these cooperative efforts help maintain healthy fish stocks for future generations.
Recipes, Techniques, and Cultural Significance
Johnson intersperses the historical narrative with practical cooking advice, citing a Cookbook author, Chef Marcus Lee, who outlines a “classic Seattle chowder” recipe. The recipe’s steps highlight the importance of starting with a well‑brined clam stock, adding diced potatoes, a splash of cream, and finishing with a drizzle of local olive oil. Lee’s emphasis on “slow simmering” and “proper seasoning” reflects the dish’s deep-rooted tradition: it’s as much about technique as it is about ingredients.
The article also explores the dish’s cultural resonance beyond the plate. Johnson writes that in many Seattle neighborhoods, the smell of chowder wafts from the back alleys of the Westlake district during the early mornings of winter. She quotes longtime resident, Marisol Gonzales, who says, “When you’re in a hurry, the best thing you can do is grab a bowl of chowder from El Buen Sabor—it’s comfort in a bowl.”
Links and Further Reading
Throughout the piece, Johnson weaves in links that broaden the reader’s understanding of chowder’s place in Pacific Northwest cuisine:
- Seattle Fish Market’s Sustainability Page – provides insight into the local supply chain that feeds chowder kitchens.
- American Culinary Institute Interview – a deeper dive into how the dish’s preparation has changed over time.
- Cookbook excerpt by Chef Marcus Lee – offers a step‑by‑step guide to recreating the classic chowder at home.
- Washington State Department of Fish and Wildlife – details the cooperative fishing model that keeps the clams and oysters plentiful.
- Podcast Episode on “Food and Culture” – explores how Seattle’s diverse population has adopted and adapted the chowder tradition.
These links enrich the narrative, showing that chowder is not just a soup but a living tradition tied to community, industry, and regional identity.
Bottom Line
Johnson’s article does more than recount a culinary lineage; it celebrates the resilience of a dish that began as a fishermen’s necessity and has become a staple of Seattle’s dining culture. By tracing the journey from a simple clam‑stock to a creamy, gourmet chowder served in downtown bistros, the Seattle Times piece affirms that this ancestor of chowder is still popular—and for good reason. Its continued popularity stems from its comforting texture, its connection to sustainable seafood practices, and its ability to bring together people of all ages over a warm, hearty bowl. Whether you’re a seasoned foodie or a casual diner, Johnson reminds us that the best meals are often those with the deepest roots.
Read the Full Seattle Times Article at:
[ https://www.seattletimes.com/life/food-drink/this-ancestor-of-chowder-is-still-popular-and-for-good-reason/ ]
