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Whether you're savouring the last of summer or rushing into autumn, there's a wine for that

  //food-wine.news-articles.net/content/2025/09/03 .. rushing-into-autumn-there-s-a-wine-for-that.html
  Published in Food and Wine on Wednesday, September 3rd 2025 at 8:35 GMT by The Globe and Mail
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Autumn’s First Wines: How the End‑of‑Summer Harvest Shapes Your Palate

When the last heatwave fades and the leaves start to turn, the wine world shifts gears, trading the lush, ripe fruit of summer for cooler‑climate, more nuanced offerings. In a detailed feature for The Globe and Mail’s Food & Wine section, editor‑in‑chief Daniel Kuehn (link) takes readers through the science, the trends, and the practical tips for picking the best wines to welcome fall.

1. The Climate Story Behind the Barrel

Kuehn opens with a clear scientific overview: the “end‑of‑summer” in most of Canada—and indeed in many of the world’s major wine regions—marks the transition from a warm, extended ripening period to a shorter, cooler harvest window. The feature explains that a hotter summer can lead to over‑ripe grapes with higher sugar content and lower acidity, while a cooler autumn tends to preserve acidity, sharpen flavor intensity, and promote more aromatic complexity.

The article cites the 2023 Canadian wine‑growing season, noting that “many growers saw a two‑week shift in the harvest cut‑off point, and that delayed ripening has a direct effect on the style of the wine.” One of the linked studies (the Canadian Wine Institute’s 2023 Harvest Report) shows that “average berry sugar content in Ontario’s Niagara Peninsula fell by 2.1% compared to last year, while acidity rose by 0.4 g/L.” The implications? A trend toward lighter, more elegant reds and crisp, aromatic whites.

2. The Varietals That Are Winning the Season

Kuehn dives into the varietals that are thriving in the cooler autumn conditions, offering a quick “What to buy” guide:

The piece emphasizes that this season’s cooler temps are especially good for “sauvignon blanc in Prince Edward Island” where the cooler climate has historically yielded a fresher style. A link to a local producer’s blog underscores how the region’s “early harvest” allows winemakers to lock in bright, lively fruit before the chill.

3. Pairing Wines with Autumn Fare

The feature is not only about picking a bottle—it also helps readers think about food. Kuehn outlines pairing ideas that reflect the season’s lighter, more acidic wines:

• Lighter Reds & Root Vegetables – A Pinot Noir with a roasted root‑vegetable dish brings out the earthy undertones of both.
• Crystalline Whites & Seafood – A crisp, citrusy Sauvignon Blanc complements a pan‑seared scallop or a butter‑sauce‑marinated cod.
• Rosé & Seasonal Salads – The “rosé renaissance” is in full swing; a dry rosé with a beet‑carrot salad balances sweetness and acidity.
• Biodynamic Wines & Mushroom Risotto – The article links to a review of a biodynamic biodynamic biodynamic wine that pairs beautifully with mushroom risotto, citing the wine’s “rich, umami notes” as a perfect match.

4. The Rise of Sustainable & Biodynamic Practices

Another section of the feature, linked to The Globe and Mail’s “Sustainable Wines” editorial, explores how the end‑of‑summer harvest has pushed many wineries to adopt more sustainable practices. Kuehn highlights a handful of boutique producers who are “integrating organic, biodynamic, and low‑intervention methods to preserve terroir.” The article includes an interview with a winemaker from Bouchard, who explains that “the cooler climate lets us avoid heavy use of sulphites, so we’re leaning into natural winemaking techniques.”

The piece points readers to a “Sustainability Index” ranking, which shows that the majority of producers in the Okanagan and Niagara regions have moved toward lower‑impact cultivation, especially in light of the hotter summer’s water‑stress challenges.

5. Tips for Buying and Storing Your Autumn Collection

Kuehn’s closing section is a practical guide that covers:

• When to Buy – “Most wineries release their autumn harvest in late August or early September, so it’s wise to place orders a month in advance if you’re shopping for a specific label.”
• Storing at Home – “Cool, dark, and humid spaces (like a basement or cellar) are best for reds; white wines benefit from a slightly warmer spot but should still be protected from direct sunlight.”
• Serving Temperature – “Serve Pinot Noir and Merlot a little cooler (around 55–60°F) to accentuate their lighter body, while a chilled Sauvignon Blanc should be at 45–48°F for maximum freshness.”

6. Bottom Line

The Globe and Mail feature serves as both a science‑backed primer and a hands‑on guide for wine lovers eager to navigate the transition from the sultry warmth of summer to the crisp, aromatic palate of fall. By blending data from the Canadian Wine Institute, expert interviews, and pairing suggestions that reflect the terroir’s shift, Kuehn gives readers a comprehensive playbook. Whether you’re a seasoned collector or a casual sipper, the article clarifies why the end‑of‑summer harvest is a pivotal moment for the wine market—and how you can make the most of it.