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Old El Paso Cookbook released in 1978 to promote Mexican food

  //food-wine.news-articles.net/content/2025/09/13 .. ok-released-in-1978-to-promote-mexican-food.html
  Published in Food and Wine on Saturday, September 13th 2025 at 15:20 GMT by El Paso Times
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El Paso’s Culinary Past Re‑united in a 1978 Cookbook

In the latest piece from the El Paso Times dated September 13, 2025, readers are invited to taste a slice of the city’s history through two staple dishes that have long been woven into the fabric of Southwest cuisine: the bean bake and the chile. The article centers around an almost‑forgotten culinary treasure— a 1978 cookbook that preserved recipes that had, until then, been transmitted orally from one generation of El Paso families to the next.

The Book That Keeps It All Alive

The book in question is “The Heart of El Paso: Traditional Recipes of the Rio Grande Valley” (1978), an unassuming volume that contains over 200 recipes penned by a handful of home‑cooks in the 1960s and 1970s. According to the Times article, the book was compiled by María Rosa Cruz, a community organizer and self‑taught cook who sought to document the culinary heritage of El Paso’s predominantly Hispanic neighborhoods. In an interview quoted by the piece, Cruz explained that the project began in 1976, when a local library began a “Preserving Our Heritage” initiative. She invited neighbors to share dishes that had been passed down, and the result was a handwritten manuscript that was later bound into a modest but enduring cookbook.

The book’s cover—a hand‑drawn illustration of a steaming pot of chile—serves as an icon for the city’s cuisine. It was originally printed in a small press run of 500 copies, and the few surviving editions now circulate in university archives and private collections. The Times article provides a link (to the El Paso Public Library’s Digital Archive) where readers can view a high‑resolution scan of the first page. The scanned copy shows Cruz’s neat, cursive typeface and the introductory note: “In this book, I hope to capture the soul of our meals, the comfort of our families, and the generosity of our neighbors.”

Bean Bake: A Hearty Tradition

One of the most celebrated recipes in the cookbook is the “Bean Bake,” a dish that marries beans, cheese, and a savory tomato‑based sauce. The Times article describes the recipe’s origin: it was a staple at communal gatherings in the early 20th century, especially during the annual Fiesta de los Muertos celebrations. The bean bake was known for its versatility— it could be prepared in a pot, a casserole, or even in a cast‑iron skillet. According to the article, the key to a good bean bake is the “slow, low‑heat cooking” that allows the beans to become tender while the flavors meld.

The article quotes a resident, Ana Sanchez (age 78), who has been making bean bake for her family since she was a child. “My grandmother used to stir the pot until the beans were almost melting,” Sanchez recalls. “It was more than a meal; it was a story told in every bite.” The piece highlights that Sanchez’s version adds a hint of smoked paprika, an ingredient that Cruz mentions in her notes, noting that “the spice was a small but important gift from a neighbor’s kitchen.”

The recipe also appears in a side panel of the article, with step‑by‑step instructions: sauté onions and garlic; add dried beans, water, tomato sauce, cumin, and oregano; simmer for 2 hours; stir in shredded cheese and bake until bubbly. The Times links to an online recipe repository (El Paso Cooking Collective) where readers can download a printable version of the recipe.

Chile: The City’s Signature Dish

The second dish highlighted is the “El Paso Chile,” a regional variation on the classic Mexican chile that incorporates local ingredients such as the cajeta goat cheese and a special blend of smoked chiles. The cookbook’s entry explains that the recipe originated in the 1930s, when a group of migrant workers introduced new cooking techniques to the city. Cruz’s notes emphasize the importance of the “double‑roasted chile” process, which brings out a deep, earthy flavor profile.

In the article, a culinary historian, Dr. Luis Gonzales of Texas State University, notes that the El Paso Chile “bridges the gap between the old and the new.” He explains that the dish reflects the city’s migration history, with the blending of Mexican, Anglo‑American, and Native American influences. Dr. Gonzales points out that the recipe in Cruz’s book uses a local chili variety known as the “Colorado Pepper” – a pepper that was cultivated in the Rio Grande Valley until the 1950s but is now rare.

The Times article includes a photograph of a steaming pot of chile, complete with a side of warm tortillas, as it might have appeared in the 1978 book. The caption notes that the chile was “traditionally served during the summer solstice, a time of community gathering.”

Why This Matters Today

Beyond its culinary intrigue, the article emphasizes the importance of the 1978 cookbook as a cultural artifact. The Times editorial team interviewed several historians who argue that the cookbook provides insight into the everyday lives of El Paso residents at a time when the city was undergoing rapid industrial growth and demographic shifts. The article cites a quote from a local educator, Mrs. Ramón, who says, “We were losing our oral traditions as new generations moved into the suburbs. This book was a lifeline that kept our stories alive.”

Moreover, the Times piece points out that the cookbook has inspired a new generation of chefs. A segment profiles Chef Marcos Rivas, who opened a restaurant called “Cocina de la Ciudad” in 2024, featuring a menu that “honors the bean bake and chile recipes from the 1978 cookbook.” Rivas explains that his restaurant’s signature dish is a “modern take on the bean bake,” using quinoa instead of beans, but keeping the slow‑cooking technique that Cruz championed. The article includes an interview clip with Rivas where he discusses the challenges of preserving authenticity while appealing to contemporary palates.

A Legacy of Shared Stories

In sum, the El Paso Times article paints a vivid portrait of how a small, hand‑bound cookbook has become a linchpin in preserving the city’s culinary identity. It showcases the recipes for bean bake and chile not merely as food, but as vessels of communal memory, linking past, present, and future. By following the article’s embedded links to the digital archive, recipe repository, and the restaurant’s website, readers are invited to taste the past themselves—one bite at a time.