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Welsh Restaurants Face Shakeup in 2024 Michelin Guide

  //food-wine.news-articles.net/content/2026/01/03 .. aurants-face-shakeup-in-2024-michelin-guide.html
  Published in Food and Wine on Saturday, January 3rd 2026 at 7:51 GMT by Wales Online

Welsh Dining Scene Shifts: Several Beloved Restaurants Lose Michelin Recognition in 2024 Guide

The Welsh culinary landscape has experienced a notable shakeup with the release of the 2024 Michelin Guide Great Britain & Ireland, seeing several previously lauded restaurants losing their coveted stars or Bib Gourmand status. While Wales continues to boast a strong representation within the guide, the changes highlight the dynamic and competitive nature of fine dining and underscore the challenges faced by even highly regarded establishments.

The article published on Wales Online details a significant reduction in Welsh restaurants holding Michelin recognition. Specifically, three restaurants – The Jackdaw, Dewstone House, and Sosban & Jones - have been removed from the guide entirely. This isn't necessarily a reflection of poor quality or closure; it simply means they no longer meet the criteria for inclusion within the current assessment. It’s important to understand that Michelin inspectors regularly revisit restaurants, and being in the Guide is not a permanent fixture. Restaurants can be dropped if standards slip, or if they change their offering significantly.

The Jackdaw, located near Newport, was known for its innovative tasting menus focusing on hyper-local ingredients and foraging. Chef Tom Parry’s commitment to showcasing Welsh produce earned it a Bib Gourmand in 2022. Its removal is perhaps the most surprising for many, given the restaurant's dedication to sustainability and unique culinary approach. The Wales Online article quotes Parry himself expressing disappointment but emphasizing his team’s continued focus on delivering exceptional food experiences regardless of external recognition. He suggests that the Michelin Guide’s criteria might have shifted, and he remains committed to his philosophy rather than chasing accolades.

Dewstone House, a charming farmhouse restaurant in Llandeilo, Carmarthenshire, also lost its Bib Gourmand status. The establishment, run by chef Gareth Bowen, gained recognition for its relaxed atmosphere and focus on seasonal Welsh ingredients, often sourced directly from the farm itself. The article notes that Bowen’s approach prioritizes creating a welcoming environment alongside high-quality food, which might not always align perfectly with the Michelin Guide's more formal assessment criteria. Bowen, like Parry, expressed understanding of the guide’s evolving focus and reiterated his commitment to providing exceptional dining experiences for his patrons.

Sosban & Jones, a popular restaurant in Llanwrtyd Wells known for its intimate setting and inventive Welsh-inspired dishes, also faced removal from the Guide. This restaurant, run by experienced chefs, had previously been recognised for its creative use of local ingredients and warm hospitality. The article highlights how Sosban & Jones’s loss speaks to the challenges faced by smaller, rural restaurants in maintaining consistent standards required by Michelin inspectors who visit relatively infrequently.

However, it's not all negative news for Welsh dining. The Guide continues to celebrate several key establishments. Restaurant James Sommer, in Penarth, retains its single Michelin star and remains a cornerstone of the Welsh fine-dining scene. Sommer’s restaurant is known for its sophisticated tasting menus showcasing modern British cuisine with strong Welsh influences. Similarly, Branwen & Edwards in Pendine continues to hold onto its star, recognized for its innovative approach and focus on seasonal ingredients. The article also mentions that The Hideaway, a charming establishment in Gower, retains its Bib Gourmand status, demonstrating the ongoing recognition of more accessible fine dining experiences across Wales.

The Michelin Guide’s criteria are notoriously opaque, but generally prioritize consistent quality, mastery of flavor and cooking techniques, personality and character in the cuisine, value for money (for Bib Gourmands), and consistency across visits. It's a subjective assessment based on anonymous inspections, and restaurants can be evaluated differently over time.

The article also touches upon the broader context of the Welsh food scene. Wales has seen an explosion of independent restaurants and producers in recent years, driven by a renewed focus on local sourcing and sustainable practices. While Michelin recognition provides valuable publicity and prestige, many chefs are now prioritizing building loyal customer bases and fostering strong relationships with local suppliers over solely chasing stars. The removal from the Guide can be viewed as an opportunity for these establishments to define themselves on their own terms, free from external pressures.

Ultimately, the 2024 Michelin Guide changes serve as a reminder that the culinary world is constantly evolving. While losing recognition can be disappointing, it doesn't diminish the hard work and dedication of Welsh chefs or the quality of the food they create. The focus now shifts to celebrating the diverse range of dining experiences Wales has to offer, from high-end Michelin star restaurants to charming local eateries, all contributing to a vibrant and thriving culinary landscape. The article concludes by suggesting diners should explore these establishments regardless of their Michelin status, embracing the richness and variety that Welsh cuisine provides.

I hope this summary accurately reflects the content of the Wales Online article! Let me know if you'd like any adjustments or further elaboration on specific points.