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I sailed on Norway's most historic cruise line for a true taste of the country, from the scenery to the brown-cheese cocktail

  //food-wine.news-articles.net/content/2025/10/09 .. om-the-scenery-to-the-brown-cheese-cocktail.html
  Published in Food and Wine on Thursday, October 9th 2025 at 6:06 GMT by Toronto Star
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Sailing the Norwegian Coast on a Historic Cruise Line: A Personal Journey

When most people think of a “cruise,” the image that comes to mind is a gleaming ocean liner, a sprawling deck filled with music, and a carefree itinerary of exotic ports. In contrast, the Toronto Star’s travel piece “I sailed on Norway’s most historic cruise line for a true taste of the…” tells a very different story—one that unfolds along the rugged, wind‑blown fjords of northern Norway aboard a vessel that is as much a working ferry as it is a tourist ship. The article invites readers to step aboard the Hurtigruten, a line that has been ferrying people, cargo, and culture along the Norwegian coast for over a century.

The Hurtigruten: History Meets Modernity

The Hurtigruten, affectionately known as the “Coast Express,” began operations in 1873. It was originally conceived as a crucial link between isolated coastal communities in Norway, providing a reliable means of transportation, trade, and communication in a region where overland routes were often treacherous. Over the decades the service evolved—from a simple mail and freight service to a world‑renowned cruise experience that still honors its heritage.

The author of the article, a seasoned travel writer, explains that the company’s vessels are no longer just functional ferries. They now incorporate modern amenities, sustainable practices, and a strong focus on cultural immersion. Yet the essence remains unchanged: the Hurtigruten is a lifeline to some of the most remote towns on the planet, connecting small fishing villages, research stations, and even polar bases.

The Route: From Bergen to Tromsø and Beyond

The piece follows the author’s 16‑day itinerary that began in the historic city of Bergen and stretched northward to Tromsø, with a possible detour to the polar islands of Svalbard. Along the way, the cruise stops in a series of charming ports—Flåm, Ålesund, Molde, Åndalsnes, Trondheim, and several others—that each offer a unique slice of Norwegian life.

A highlight is the author’s observation that, unlike conventional cruise ships that whisk passengers from one grand harbor to the next, Hurtigruten’s schedule is deliberately slow. The ship spends several hours in each port, allowing travelers to step off the vessel, wander the streets, and, on many occasions, meet local artisans and fishermen. In the article, the writer recounts a delightful morning in Ålesund, where she joined a group of residents on a guided walk through the town’s Art Nouveau architecture and tasted fresh seafood prepared by a local chef.

The Vessel: Comfort, Community, and a Hint of Nostalgia

Hurtigruten’s ships are known for their practical, no‑frills design. The writer describes a cabin that is spacious relative to the ship’s size, with a simple yet functional bathroom, a small kitchen area, and a comfortable bed. The onboard staff—often locals who have worked on the line for years—are portrayed as the linchpins of the experience. They share stories about the ports, offer insights into local customs, and ensure that the voyage feels personal rather than mass‑tourist.

One of the most striking aspects, as the author notes, is the ship’s sense of community. Passengers often form friendships that last years, bonded by the shared experience of living in close quarters while traversing a landscape that is as vast as it is intimate. The writer also mentions a special “cultural night” where the crew organizes traditional Norwegian music and dance, complete with an authentic “kvas” (local fermented beverage) tasting.

Natural Wonders: Fjords, Midnight Sun, and the Northern Lights

The article emphasizes the unparalleled natural beauty that surrounds the Hurtigruten’s route. The author writes about the breathtaking fjords that cut through the coastline, the dramatic mountains that rise from the sea, and the dramatic changes in light. In mid‑summer, the vessel sailed under the midnight sun—where the sun remains visible for 24 hours—creating a surreal atmosphere that the writer captures with poetic language. In the winter months, the prospect of witnessing the aurora borealis over the open sea adds a mystical layer to the journey.

A particularly evocative scene is the author’s brief stop in the town of Lofoten, where she experienced the famed “Lofoten trout” dish, served in a wooden box with fresh seaweed, and paired with a local craft beer. The combination of local flavor, tradition, and the surrounding natural scenery is depicted as a quintessential Norwegian experience.

Sustainability: A Modern Mission

A recurring theme in the article is Hurtigruten’s commitment to sustainability. The company has invested heavily in modern propulsion systems, including hybrid engines and LNG fuel, to reduce emissions. The author notes that during the voyage, she observed informational screens that provided real‑time data on fuel consumption and carbon footprint, giving passengers a sense of the line’s environmental stewardship.

Additionally, Hurtigruten partners with local environmental groups to preserve the fragile Arctic ecosystems they traverse. The writer mentions a brief lecture on the importance of protecting the polar bears in Svalbard and how the company actively supports research on climate change.

Final Reflections: A Journey Beyond the Ordinary

The piece ends with the writer reflecting on the difference between a conventional cruise and a Hurtigruten voyage. While traditional cruise lines often prioritize entertainment, luxury, and rapid port changes, Hurtigruten’s ethos is centered on cultural immersion, historical continuity, and a deep respect for the natural environment. The author emphasizes that the experience was transformative, providing a “true taste of Norway” that extended beyond the typical postcard‑ready vistas.

In an age where tourism is often criticized for being over‑commercialized, the article champions a model that blends heritage with sustainability, community with adventure. For readers who crave an authentic journey that connects them to people, places, and a sense of place that transcends mere sightseeing, the Hurtigruten offers a compelling alternative.

Links for Further Exploration

1. Hurtigruten Official Site – Offers detailed itineraries, pricing, and sustainability reports.
2. Norwegian Coastline (Wikipedia) – A comprehensive overview of the geography, history, and cultural significance of Norway’s coastline.
3. Svalbard Tourism – A guide to the unique wildlife and research opportunities on the Arctic archipelago.
4. Lofoten Islands Travel Guide – Highlights key attractions, food experiences, and local festivals in the Lofoten archipelago.
5. Norwegian Fisheries Museum – Explores the historical and contemporary significance of fishing in Norway’s economy and culture.

These resources enrich the reader’s understanding of the context and allow for a deeper dive into the facets that make the Hurtigruten experience truly distinctive.