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Custom Charcoal: The New Kitchen Staple

  //food-wine.news-articles.net/content/2025/11/16/custom-charcoal-the-new-kitchen-staple.html
  Published in Food and Wine on Sunday, November 16th 2025 at 20:12 GMT by Food & Wine

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Chefs Making Custom Charcoal: Why a Hand‑Crafted Smoke Is the New Kitchen Staple

The humble lump of charcoal has long been a kitchen essential, turning ordinary grills into flavor powerhouses. Yet in recent years a growing number of chefs are moving beyond mass‑produced sticks and slabs and are turning to a more artisanal, hands‑on approach: making their own charcoal. In a deep dive on Food & Wine, the article “Chefs Making Custom Charcoal” (https://www.foodandwine.com/chefs-making-custom-charcoal-11850228) explains why this trend is gaining steam, how the process works, and what it means for the future of sustainable, flavor‑rich cooking.

1. The Problem With Off‑The‑Shelf Charcoal

Most commercial charcoal is produced in large facilities where trees or wood waste are subjected to a “carbonization” process at high temperatures. The end product is often heavily “blackened” and can contain additives—binders, preservatives, and even plastic fragments that can seep into food. The flavor profile of these sticks is typically flat, producing a consistent but uninspired smoke.

Chefs across the United States and beyond—like Marcus Samuelsson (Austrian-born, New York‑based chef known for his inventive use of smoke) and Daniel “Danny” DeMarco of the Miami grill joint Cedar, who has a reputation for smoky BBQ—have found that off‑the‑shelf charcoal simply doesn’t give them the nuance they want. “We’re looking for distinct, layered smoke,” says Samuelsson. “A commercial product just doesn’t cut it.”

The article cites a key quote from DeMarco: “When you’re building a barbecue experience, the smoke isn’t just an afterthought; it’s a flavor pillar.” A quick link in the article (“How to Choose the Right Charcoal for Your Grill”) details the factors chefs weigh—grain structure, burning time, ash content, and, most critically, the aroma compounds released during combustion.

2. Turning Wood Waste into Flavor

Custom charcoal is all about control. Chefs begin by selecting the right type of wood. Common choices include hickory, mesquite, apple, and maple, each offering a distinct aromatic signature. Some even experiment with exotic timbers—like cedar from the Southwest or sweet chestnut—to produce unique flavor profiles.

The process starts with “chopping and seasoning.” According to the linked “Charcoal Making 101” tutorial (a side‑article that provides a step‑by‑step guide), the wood is first chopped into manageable pieces. The pieces are then left to dry, either in a controlled environment or under the sun, until moisture content drops below 10%. Moisture is a critical factor; too wet and the charcoal will produce excess smoke, too dry and the burn will be uneven.

Next comes the “carbonization” stage. The seasoned wood is placed in a low‑oxygen environment—typically a homemade kiln or a repurposed drum—where it’s heated to approximately 900–1,000 °F. The goal is to drive off water and volatile compounds, leaving behind carbon, minerals, and a subtle “char” coating. The chefs often use a simple “pit‑kiln” design, which allows them to adjust airflow to fine‑tune the char quality.

Once the carbonized wood has cooled, it’s broken into lumps or shaped into bars using hand‑crafted molds. The article highlights a chef from San Francisco, Chef Maya Patel, who uses a bamboo mold to shape charcoal into “micro‑chunks” that release smoke more slowly, making them ideal for low‑temperature cooking over several hours.

3. Flavor, Aroma, and the Science Behind the Smoke

A key part of the article’s narrative is the explanation of why custom charcoal tastes different. The “Science of Smoke Flavor” link explains how smoke contains hundreds of volatile organic compounds—phenols, aldehydes, and lignin derivatives—that deposit on food. The type of wood and the carbonization process dictate which compounds dominate.

Custom charcoal, with its less‑processed surface, typically releases a broader range of aromatics. For example, hickory charcoal, when made by a chef in a small kiln, can produce a sweet, nutty smoke with subtle caramel undertones. In contrast, commercial hickory sticks might deliver a sharp, almost acrid smoke due to additives or incomplete carbonization.

The article includes a side‑by‑side taste test with three chefs—Samuelsson, DeMarco, and Patel—who each grilled a ribeye steak using their custom charcoal, a commercial stick, and a coconut shell charcoal, respectively. According to the chefs, the custom charcoal yielded a more “well‑balanced” smoke that highlighted the meat’s natural juices rather than overpowering them.

4. Sustainability, Waste Reduction, and the Business Angle

Beyond flavor, custom charcoal is lauded for its environmental benefits. Many chefs source their wood from local farms, community forests, or even reclaimed pallets. The article’s “Sustainability in the Kitchen” section notes that using wood waste—such as sawdust, bark, or even used cooking pans—can reduce landfill use and lower the carbon footprint of a restaurant’s operations.

In addition, custom charcoal production can create a small, local supply chain. “When we produce our own charcoal, we’re also supporting local artisans and small businesses,” says DeMarco. The article points out that the process can be scaled for restaurants: a 10‑kg batch of custom charcoal can fill a commercial grill for weeks, making the upfront labor worthwhile.

For chefs who are also entrepreneurs, the ability to brand their own charcoal line can be a new revenue stream. The linked “Starting a Charcoal Business” guide covers the basics—from sourcing permits to packaging, marketing, and compliance with health codes. It also discusses how to maintain product consistency, a challenge that many chefs have overcome by employing simple, repeatable procedures and regular sensory evaluations.

5. A Look Ahead: Innovation and Collaboration

The article concludes with a discussion of how custom charcoal fits into a broader movement of “slow cooking” and “artisanal” food. Many chefs are now collaborating with local farms, cooperatives, and even forestry experts to develop new wood blends. For instance, a group of chefs in the Pacific Northwest is experimenting with cedar‑pine‑spruce blends to create a subtle, resinous smoke that pairs exceptionally well with fish and poultry.

The article also highlights a community‑driven “Charcoal Guild”—a collective of chefs who share recipes, techniques, and wood sources. According to a sidebar, the guild hosts quarterly “charcoal‑making” workshops that allow novices and seasoned chefs alike to learn the craft.

Take‑Away Points

1. Control Equals Flavor – By making charcoal themselves, chefs can craft a smoke profile that complements the specific dishes they serve.
2. Sustainability Pays Off – Using wood waste or locally sourced timber reduces waste and can lower operational costs.
3. The Science Is Real – Custom charcoal releases a wider range of volatile compounds, offering a richer, more nuanced smoke.
4. Business Opportunities Exist – Small‑scale charcoal production can become a profitable side‑business, especially when paired with proper branding and regulatory compliance.
5. Community Drives Innovation – Collaboration among chefs, farmers, and wood‑experts fosters continuous improvement in both taste and sustainability.

If you’re a grill‑enthusiast or a culinary professional, the Food & Wine piece (https://www.foodandwine.com/chefs-making-custom-charcoal-11850228) is a must‑read. It not only showcases the art of custom charcoal but also serves as a roadmap for anyone who wants to elevate their cooking with smoke that is as intentional as it is delicious.