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Food and Wine
Source : (remove) : HuffPost Life
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Food and Wine
Source : (remove) : HuffPost Life
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Wine Experts Have Done A 180 On This Once- Hated Cheap Wine

Wine Experts Have Done a 180 on This Once-Hated Trend: The Rise of Natural Wine

In the ever-evolving world of wine, trends come and go, but few have experienced as dramatic a turnaround as natural wine. Once dismissed by sommeliers, critics, and traditionalists as flawed, unpredictable, and even downright faulty, natural wine is now being celebrated in high-end restaurants, trendy bars, and collector's cellars alike. Wine experts who once turned up their noses at these minimally intervened vintages are now singing their praises, marking a complete 180-degree shift in perception. This transformation didn't happen overnight—it's the result of changing consumer tastes, a growing emphasis on sustainability, and a broader cultural movement toward authenticity in food and drink. But what exactly is natural wine, and why has it gone from pariah to darling of the wine world?

At its core, natural wine refers to wines made with as little human intervention as possible. This means grapes are grown organically or biodynamically, without synthetic pesticides or herbicides. In the winery, fermentation occurs spontaneously using native yeasts rather than commercial ones, and there's minimal or no addition of sulfites, which are preservatives commonly used in conventional winemaking to stabilize the product. Filtration and fining—processes that clarify and stabilize wine—are often skipped, resulting in wines that can appear cloudy, funky, or even slightly effervescent. Proponents argue that this hands-off approach allows the true essence of the terroir—the unique combination of soil, climate, and grape variety—to shine through, creating wines that are vibrant, alive, and full of personality.

However, this very lack of intervention was what initially drew criticism. In the early 2000s, when natural wines began gaining a foothold in niche markets like New York and Paris, many experts viewed them as amateurish or defective. Traditional wine critics, accustomed to the polished, consistent profiles of mass-produced wines from regions like Bordeaux or Napa Valley, often described natural wines as "barnyardy," "vinegary," or unstable—prone to spoilage if not stored perfectly. Influential voices in the industry, including prominent sommeliers and wine writers, warned consumers away, associating natural wine with the hippie counterculture rather than serious oenology. One famous critic even likened drinking natural wine to "playing Russian roulette," highlighting the risk of off-flavors or premature oxidation due to the absence of stabilizing agents.

Fast forward to today, and the narrative has flipped entirely. What was once seen as a flaw is now embraced as a feature. Wine experts point to several factors driving this reversal. First, there's the millennial and Gen Z consumer base, who prioritize transparency, sustainability, and experiences over perfection. These demographics, influenced by the farm-to-table movement and a distrust of industrialized food systems, see natural wine as a rebellion against the homogenized, chemical-laden wines that dominate supermarket shelves. Social media has played a huge role too—Instagram influencers and TikTok sommeliers showcase the quirky labels, vibrant colors, and unexpected flavors of natural wines, making them accessible and fun rather than intimidating.

Moreover, the environmental angle can't be overstated. With climate change threatening vineyards worldwide, natural winemaking aligns with regenerative agriculture practices that promote soil health and biodiversity. Biodynamic farming, a cornerstone of many natural wine producers, treats the vineyard as a holistic ecosystem, incorporating lunar cycles and herbal preparations to enhance vitality. This resonates with experts who now acknowledge that conventional winemaking's reliance on chemicals contributes to soil degradation and water pollution. Organizations like the Natural Wine Association and events such as RAW Wine fairs have further legitimized the category, drawing in respected figures from the wine establishment.

Take, for instance, the sommeliers at Michelin-starred restaurants who once scoffed at natural wines but now curate entire lists around them. In cities like London, Copenhagen, and San Francisco, establishments like Noma or The Clove Club feature natural wines prominently, pairing them with innovative cuisine. Critics like those from Wine Spectator or Decanter, who previously gave low scores to "flawed" naturals, are now awarding high marks to bottles that exhibit what they call "honest imperfection." Even traditional regions are adapting: In France's Loire Valley or Italy's Piedmont, legacy winemakers are experimenting with low-intervention methods, blending old-world heritage with new-wave techniques.

This shift isn't without its controversies, though. Detractors still argue that natural wine's variability makes it unreliable for collectors or fine dining, where consistency is key. There's also the issue of definition—unlike organic or biodynamic certifications, "natural wine" lacks a universal standard, leading to greenwashing where some producers slap the label on minimally altered wines without true commitment. Yet, advocates counter that this fluidity is part of its charm, encouraging experimentation and diversity in a industry often criticized for being stuffy and elitist.

The market reflects this enthusiasm. Sales of natural wines have surged, with estimates showing double-digit growth annually in the U.S. and Europe. Importers like Jenny & François or Zev Rovine Selections have built empires around sourcing these gems from small, independent producers in places like Georgia (the country, birthplace of winemaking) or Australia's Adelaide Hills. Consumers are drawn to the stories behind the bottles—wines made by passionate, often young vignerons who prioritize ethics over profit. Flavors range from the pét-nat sparklers with their lively fizz to orange wines (skin-contact whites) that offer tannic complexity reminiscent of reds.

Looking ahead, the 180 on natural wine signals broader changes in the industry. It challenges the dominance of big-brand conglomerates and encourages a return to artisanal roots. For wine lovers, it means more options: from glou-glou (easy-drinking) reds perfect for picnics to complex, age-worthy whites that rival Burgundy classics. Experts now advise newcomers to start with accessible producers like Domaine de la Pinte in the Jura or Clos du Tue-Boeuf in the Loire, emphasizing that the key to appreciation is an open mind and a willingness to embrace the unexpected.

In essence, natural wine's journey from hated to hailed underscores a cultural pivot toward authenticity and sustainability. What was once a fringe movement has become mainstream, proving that in wine, as in life, sometimes the most rewarding paths are the ones least traveled—or in this case, least intervened with. As one converted sommelier put it, "Natural wine isn't about perfection; it's about purity." And in a world craving genuineness, that's a trend worth toasting to. (Word count: 928)

Read the Full HuffPost Life Article at:
[ https://www.yahoo.com/lifestyle/articles/wine-experts-done-180-once-110017835.html ]